Middle East

Turkey.

Click on photo for photo album of Turkey.

27th Day 11. Turkish Border.

To say we had a quick trip through the boarder is an understatement. We drove through as they asked, we were passed on from one official to the next and the next and the next. They all wanted to see a passport and vehicle documents. Strangely they all wanted the UK V5c reg doc and not the International Registration document that we had to buy. So it continued and we arrived at the exit gate where we were told that we need a stamp. At this rate we will need new passports with the stamps they have put in. So back we went to the last “check point charley”. He pointed back to the exit gate. Thinking we are going to go around in circles if we are not careful we parked and Jackie went off in one of her “I am getting fed up of your games mood”. I followed shortly and found her doing battle with one of the many more officials. $20 each entry tax, Vehicle document inspection, Customs, Visa, and insurance as you are not able to buy it in UK as they are outside the EU. Another EU barmy law that serves no purpose other than for the sake of officialdom. Eventually we were allowed to escape. It was like escaping from Colditz. The gates opened and we were out. First job buy the Vinnette. Then we were off. Straight for Istanbul. But in that there is another story.The trip to Istanbul was uneventful but this was the lull before the storm. Motorways were clear, very little traffic. We plodded on at about 55 to 60 nice and steady stopping for coffee every hour and a half. We found our turning for the campsite and thought “cracked it”. How wrong we were. It took close on another hour to find the site and then it was closed. This was now 4 pm in a major city. We set off in search of another site over the estuary. It was not to be. The traffic was, well like nothing on earth. If you think the M25 is bad on a Friday. Think again. When the traffic lights change to go, everybody at the back of the cue thinks they should move instantly. If not, on go the horns. No chance of missing the lights in this place. At about 6.30 I had enough and parked up in a slip road to the motorway next to a couple of buses. This is not UK and while the rules are similar they are bendable, one way only means one way if that’s the way you are going, stop only means stop if it’s convenient or you are at the front of the cue. Long loud blast on the horn means let me through now I am important, and so on. So defensive driving is the key and make yourself as big as possible. I found presenting the front bumper to them worked reasonably well. But bear in mind that the police with sirens, loud speakers, horns and flashing lights still could net get through will give you some idea.However, back to our predicament. Jackie had meanwhile taken herself off to find coffee and food. She came back with both to my complete surprise. I had given her Romanian Leif not Turkish Lira. The shop had taken pity on her and told her to bring the money in tomorrow. Must send her shopping again. At about 8.30 we moved off. As we tried to find our way out we passed the shop and Jackie went in to pay them. She said they were quite surprised and thought they didn’t expect to see her again. But our story continues. We managed to get ourselves onto the correct road and came to an automatic toll booth. But we had no ticket, don’t know quite how we managed this but we had. As you can imagine the patent locals were on the horns in 5 seconds. But with no ticket you can’t lift the barrier. Eventually the guy in the car behind came and put his ticket in letting us go and releasing the queue. Next job was to find diesel. Bearing in mind we hadn’t seen a petrol station in Istanbul centre at all. Asking directions was good fun but by keeping asking every 3 or 4 min we eventually found one. Filling up I asked the attendant if there was a hotel close by as it was now nearly 10 pm. Giving us directions I paid him and gave him a tip. He ran off and returned with a box of washing powder and a bottle of cleaner. So we don’t know if he was taking pity on us or he just thought we were dirty and needed clean clothes and a good wash. We like to think the former. The hotel was nowhere to be found. Finding a taxi I asked directions. He knew the place but I couldn’t understand. In the end I told him “show me I follow and pay”. Strange how he immediately understood that. 5 min later we were at the hotel. They made room right by the front door to park Sandy and the night porter was instructed to watch it all night. Not the best of hotels but it was better than no hotel and we were totally cream crackered. After a shower, beer and sandwich it was off to bed. The end of another easy day in paradise.

28th day 12. (Still in Istanbul)

First night for a while with no dogs barking is this a sign of things to come? The view from the hotel breakfast room was quite good overlooking the Harbour. Ferry’s coming and going all the time and continuous hustle and bustle. We left at about 9.30 and found our way out of Istanbul without too much difficulty (Thankfully) heading towards Ankara. Not that we wanted Ankara but the same road for the next 60 miles to cross the estuary to gain access to the west coast. Our plan was to head for Lake Iznik and find a camp site so that we are in early and have a bit of a flob and catch up with one or two things. That plan did not work very well.  No campsite so we continued on towards Bursa where sites were marked on the map. After a fruitless search we thought of the saying If you find a tap don’t expect water, if you find a plug don’t expect electric, we added on If you see a camping sign on a map don’t expect a campsite in Turkey!!!!. To date we have not seen a proper camp site sign in Turkey. Maybe they just don’t have them. We continued on past Lake Ulubut with no sign of a site or anywhere you could park up. Eventually we found a pull in that lead to a dip down to a stream and well out of site. That would do nicely. We parked and set up camp. Having sat down to dinner a Sheppard came by with a flock of sheep. 10 min later a Turkish guy came round. Apparently this was his land. But no problem we told him we would leave it tidy or as we found it and he was quite happy and made us very welcome. Jackie was quite happy as she had no barking dogs to contend with. By a stream with frogs. Now what did that lead to? Nothing but croaking frogs all night.As Jackie said,” dogs one night frogs the next not a lot of difference”.

29th Day 13.

Somewhere on the 575 near Susurluk.Rain once more, not two hard but still wet. We didn’t dally, packed up quite quick and left. We hadn’t gone more than a few miles when Jackie heard the immortal words, “we are running out of power”. On a hill naturally. We limped Sandy to the top and pulled off the road. Fuel once more. It took about an hour to sort. PTFE in the pipe by one of the connections. I had used PTFE around the olives to ensure no leaks and some had come off, worked loose and restricted a pipe. Changing my coat and shirt and having a quick wash to clear the smell of Diesel away we continued. Sandy ran like a top again. I thought by stripping out the fuel system I had cured my problems. We will see if its isolated or not but if that’s all the problems I am going to get I can cope with them.We continued down towards the west coast passing Izmir a large city down to our camp site (Hopefully) by a village called Pamuack close to Selcuk. The camp site was shut!!!!!!!! And we could see the sea. Fortunately we had three more sites marked down so on we went. After about 5 min we booked into a site and parked up right on the sea front. Bit windy but shower blocks etc and a restaurant so tonight we eat out! The food wasn’t bad, service good a pleasant atmosphere and the weather looked promising. We may stay a few days.One of the sites dogs that knows where to sleep at night.

And stay we did for three days. Parked next to a Belgium called Winn who was touring in a converted 300d Estate ambulance with his dog Sapper. Nice dog Sapper and Winn was ok as well. Sapper was spoilt totally.

Winn had broken down and was awaiting parts from Europe to repair his suspension. Looked like he was to be stuck for a few more days yet when we left. Also met an American called Jack. We spent a very pleasant night in the restaurant with him over a meal and beer. Hope the trip through Europe is going well Jack and if you get permission from on high, you will love Africa!!!!!!! We went out into Selcuk for the day to do some shopping and find a bank.  What a lovely spot. We went by local mini bus. Found a shopping area, lots of small shops, restaurants and market stalls to browse and do food shopping. Had some lunch. You would have thought that ordering a Donna Kebab would have presented no problem. Jackie’s lunch came quite quickly, mine took an age, but nobody was cooking. Then a moped arrived with what looked like a take a way. 30 seconds later my lunch arrived!!!! So much for Turkish cooking.  But the shopping area was great. Not that we spent much, no room to fit it in. Camp site at Selcuk. top RH 

2nd May  Day 16

Having had a pleasant stop at Deleria Camp site we are leaving to day and are heading for Denizli. We stopped off for fuel and received another gift of s box of tissues. I am sure that Jackie has an effect on them. Steady trip down to Denizli and found a camp site called Pamukke Camping. We arrived at about 3 pm, and booked in for dinner. Jackie had some underwear to wash so off she went looking for the washing machine. Having found it the lady owner insisted that she would shake all Jackie’s underwear out and place it into the machine herself much to Jackie’s disgust. (Jackie was mortified by this and says that all women will know just what she means). Then to top it all she then insisted on hanging her underwear on the washing line for her. It turned out that the owner was an excellent cook and dinner was superb. We also met a couple from Italy who were touring on a GS 1150 motor bike. Hope you had a good trip guys.  It turned out that Pamukke is a major tourist resort due to hot springs that also form limestone basins that people bath in.

3rd May Day 17.

Set off this morning and it’s a glorious day. We are making our way to Antalya on the south coast. We had a very pleasant drive through the mountains stopping to enjoy the views. We could not find the camp site; this is not unusual in Turkey judging by our experience, because it is listed on the map dose not mean it exists. So we asked directions from a Taxi driver who directed us to Bogez Camping. This was also closed but they let us stay. We were the only people on the site which was well laid out with hard standing, shower blocks with piping hot water and all for 10 euros a night. As a bonus we had a cracking thunder storm that must have been overhead as the earth moved for some time.  

4th May Day 18. 

It was raining as it seems to do in the mornings over here. We had no choice but to take the coast road which proved quite a challenge.

Hairpin bends, steep drops and 30 mph was good going. Don’t think we moved out of 2nd, 3rd and 4th until the end of the day. On hills like this, what gear you go up in you generally go down in too. 

When we stopped for some lunch by the sea we saw a dead turtle, about 1 mtr long. It had a rope tied to one of its legs that hade been fastened in a knot. Looks like some of the local kids had found it swimming and used it as a toy. Shame, they should know better. When we left the coast road we found a camp site down by the sea. Parking up right next to the sea was a mistake as we found out later. 

5th May Day 19.

Not the best start to the day today.!!! For the second night running we had an absolutely superb thunder storm, the rain came down in bucket full’s and Sandy was rocking with the wind blasting on the side from the sea. In the morning when Jackie got up (to make Bobs coffee as all good wives do) the inside of the awning was a total mud bath. Jackie cleared the worst out as best she could, having done this she was covered in red mud so she went and hit the showers. The scream could be heard in Rome, I quote her, “it was bloody freezing like Ice”. I new at this point she was not a happy bunny, when I got up we washed everything down to remove the red mud off. The ground sheet was that bad I took it into the sea working on the principle that it would be easier to remove the mud in the sea than wash it off. This worked fine until I fell over and sat down in the sea complete with ground sheet, bugger somebody forgot to put the hot tap on. Jackie was on the floor laughing at the site of me having a cold bath for breakfast; needless to say we packed up and left quite quickly. Just after leaving Jackie wanted breakfast NOW!! As she does. Spying a café on the other side of the road we did a u turn and stopped for breakfast!!! Now the nice Turkish lady in the café spoke no English, both of us of having no hope of knowing any Turkish ordered coffees. The resulting offering that had been troweled into the cups could have been used as gear oil (it looked and tasted like it). Then attemping to order breakfast the fun started. In the end I picked up a loaf of bread and she got the basic idea, showing me some cheese and both of us nodding she produced breakfast of bread, cheese, salad, butter and honey. Meanwhile, Jackie was killing one of the plants by pouring her sump oil over it!!!. Asking for Nescafe produced a better result, not fantastic but drinkable. In fairness to the lady in the café she tried very hard to please and was a nice person. We continued along the south coast towards Syria, the campsite on the map looked like a poor mans version of a gypsy camp. So pushing on we continued to Dortyol which is sixty miles short from the border. Not finding a camp site we have stopped at a (hotel) for the night. But more later.

6th May Day 20. 

The hotel was a flash back to Faulty Towers, the room was in reasonable  condition at least. We have to keep reminding ourselves that this is not England and while things are the same by name they can be very very different. To them they are the same so you just have to go with the flow. We went down for some dinner. The menu when it arrived had not seen the light of day for weeks, no probably months and had probably been used as a draft excluder behind the kitchen stove of something. ¾ of the items were not available so it was down to the basics to keep it simple. It took a while but the food was ok when it arrived. They had internet access as well so that kept us busy for a while. We left immediately after breakfast (jam, bread and goats cheese don’t get excited) and set off for the Syrian boarder. We were quite apprehensive about the boarder crossing and what we would find but our fears proved to be totally groundless. The run to the boarder was easy and close to uneventful crossing a mountain range which ran into thick thick cloud at the top. It was like turning a light out and plunging you into a grey haze. And of course the Turkish drivers all put on headlights, rear fogs and slowed down to a reasonable pace. Yeh! like Allah had provided for them personal. We ended up driving through what can be described as the fens. Totally flat fro about 25 miles. When we arrived at the boarder we were greated with the normal long line of trucks waiting to go through. We drove to the front and were waved straight through. Passing through the Turkish side was remarkably simple. So simple we thought we would be turned back at the end. But no, it was dead easy far easier than getting in.

Driving over no mans land about 3 kls we came to the dreaded Syrian boarder. Not sure just what to expect we stopped at there first point to have passports checked. No problem.

We have lost the photos for Syria, as soon as we find them we will load up meanwhile the photo album looks a bit sad. But click on the link if you wish, any photo will do.

We parked outside what looked like to be an administrate building and went in. Facing us was a row of official kiosks labelled insurance, bank, customs and so forth. Deciding to start with the insurance we were pointed to the passport office. It took a while for them to enter our details down and when they asked if the passports had been issued in London we tried to explain that it was Peterborough. Realising this was a step too far for them we changed it to London. Things then progressed. Passing us to the bank. We were taken in hand by what you can call a fixer. He knew the ropes. Pointing us to customs with Sandy for inspection. The customs officer was great. his english was excellant which was a great help. He checked the Carnet, asked to look in Sandy. Looking in the back he asked if we had any guns or drugs as he thought Africa was very unsafe and we would need both. Explaining that my sharpest weapon was my wit and my deadliest weapon was my wife he burst out laughing and passed us through. Taking Jackie’s passport he told us to park on the other side of the barrier and get the rest of the paperwork completed and stamped here, here and here etc. Returning to the big office we duly with help of the fixer obtained the rest of the stamps and paid our diesel tax, entry tax, insurance and completed the process in under 1 ½ hours. Having obtained Jackie’s passport back we parked up and made ourselves a cup of tea.  Setting off for one of two camp sites marked on the map at Idlib. Nowhere to be found. Not a sight of one. Even the local police did not know of one. Deciding to go straight to Halab we ventured up the M1. Yes a motorway but not as we know it. You have guessed, local rules apply when needed. Halab is bigger that expected and no camp sites are to be found. Little did we know but if we had gone from the boarder to Halab direct we would have passed one. Sugar lumps and dogs bits but that’s life. Driving around Halb was and is a night mare,not quite as bad as Istanbul but a more mild drive, its like comparing flu with a severe cold. Not finding the hotel we were looking for and getting lost Jackie went off to get directions and returned with a man!!!! He came with us in Sandy showing us where to go. Thanking him for his trouble I offered to pay him but he was having none of it. Checking to hotels out we found that there was no parking other than on the road. Not being happy with this off we went again. Once more lost!!!!! Once more off Jackie goes and returns with a van, driver and mate. (I have to start and watch this girl). We follow this van only to pass the hotel we had been trying to find. Making a note of its whereabouts we thought as we passed. In the end our escort stopped outside a very nice hotel. This will do pronounced Jackie. Once more thanking our second escort he too refused any form of payment. Thinking that if Jackie went off to find directions again god knows what she might come back with this time so I elected regardless of what the cost might be to stay put. Foolish thought, but we stayed put. Nice hotel, Sandy parked off the road everything we wanted. It was just going to be a pain in the wallet.   

7th May. Day 21. 

Thur.The sun was out, clear sky, more the mark we want. We went out to find the old castle from the Crusades. You would think that this was an easy task. You could see it from the top of the hotel. Setting off walking we soon realised that a taxi was the best bet. Stopping one, the language barrier made it a no go. Trying a second one Jackie jumped straight in and we had the same problem. Ending up back at the hotel we started again. This time we asked the concierge to sort out the cab. What a sight the castle turned out to be. Don’t know how they built it in them days or how they had the time in the Crusades. It was huge, very impressive if they had built it today never mind all them years ago.

In the castle we met up with a fellow traveller that we saw at the border. He was staying with Syrian friends and told us of the underground shopping mall. Ho boy. What a place you could buy just about everything you would want from fresh meat to having a carpet weaved for you. We were mesmerised by a carpet weaver who by eye was weaving a carpet by hand. The skill must have been passed down from father to son and so on.

Onething I have noticed out here is that you csn get the parts for almost anything. bearings, olives, pipe fittings, shimms etc you dont have to buy the whole thing. Photo of a shop with all the bits you need.

While out Jackie looking for some fags pointed out a shop that sold them. Quitely I explained that they would not be the fags she wanted and this was an international trade name for bearings.

Due to Jackie phone no longer working we purchased a new phone and sim card. See phone page for number. As we move around we will purchase new sim cards and post the number on he web site. Tomorrow we move south.