Egypt.

To view photo album of Egypt click on any photo.

32nd day.18th May, Monday.

 We left the camp site at Aquba at around 9.30 am to go the ferry office to see if we could get the morning ferry as the only other one is at midnight and we did not fancy that much. We had heard that the late one gets really packed and it takes three hours or so, the early one only takes one and a half hours. Yes, the ferry is operating today and indeed we have our tickets. Whilst we were in the office our fellow travel companions Steve and Katie arrived and they also got there tickets, Egypt here we come!!! We were told to be at the docks for eleven but no clear indication of what time we would actually leave Aquba, nothing new then. The boat was rather quite, there must have been all of eight cars on board. A fair few people who had walked on, and a coach full of tourists minus there coach because it is too tall to get on the boat. We had a nice trip across which was just as well given the cost, 70 dollars each for us and 220 dollars for Sandy Ouch!!! Don’t know what time we left the port but we arrived at 3.15 in Egypt and a tourist policeman came onto the boat to ask if we would like a hand with the formalities entering Egypt, to which the answer was YES. We drove to the arrivals and Bob and Steve were taken off to deal with the paperwork whilst Katie and I stayed with the vehicles. We were then asked to show them the chassis number and they took a rubbing with a piece of paper and pencil. Next they wanted to see our fire extinguishers and then gave us a piece of paper which told us we had now cleared customs. However Bob and Steve were still going from one building to building and it was about two hours when we finally cleared, but at least we didn’t have to empty everything out of Sandy for her to be searched. We came into Egypt at a place called Nuweiba and we knew that there was a camp site not so far away which we had found on Tracks to Africa. We ended up in a camp site   right on the beach, had tea, a few beers then bed. 

33rd day. 19th May. Tuesday. 

Time to explore Egypt then and we are now into Africa. Bob and I decided to have a run down to Sharm el Sheik for the day, nice place for a holiday but rather expensive. Priced for the tourist. We were now beginning to realise just how many police check points there are in Egypt, some just wave you through others look at paper work and want to know where we are going. When we say South Africa they always want to chat. We needed to find somewhere to camp and decided to bush camp at Ras Muhammad National Park. Set in small coves with a beach we set up camp. There was a huge camper van there, or should I say The Hilton on wheels. This belonged to a lovely couple from Norwich who had been travelling as far afield as Libya and were now starting there journey back to the UK. There accommodation is fantastic, complete with dishwasher, fridge freezer, nice kitchen, air con and in the bedroom too. Some people just travel in style. 

34th Day 20th May Wednesday

Decided to go into Sharm el Sheik to stock up on shopping which is easier said than done. They have stopped all vehicles apart from taxis going down to the sea front which is where most of the shops are. We decided to park up the road and walk in which was harder than we thought in the heat. Fortunately we found a café that did an English breakfast. The first for a long time and it just had to be done. It wasn’t bad either. As it was so hot we ended up in Mac Donald’s (yes I am ashamed to say) and we had a delicious ice cold milk shake. On the way back we did some bits of shopping and found a create of beer. (Thought it might come in handy somewhere). We headed back to camp. Wurly and Esther the Swiss couple who we met in Aquba in Jordan turned up. They are also going to Cape Town. We just did a bit of swimming and chilled out for the rest of the day and I was just cooking tea when Steve and Katie arrived. I had cooked far too much (it had to get cooked or throw it as it was getting to the eat date) so they joined us. When it had cooled down all eight of us sat and had a beer or two discussing all sorts of things. Bed was rather late, about midnight. We haven’t been up that late for some time. 

35th Day 21st May,Thursday. 

We left the next morning to make our way up to Cairo stopping off for the night at a place called Ras Sudr. We had a steady run arriving at about 4pm and the site was deserted. Looked like it had not been used for quite a while. The gate was open we went in and parked up. Looking around no one could be found. So we put the kettle on and made a pot of tea. Meanwhile, half of the Egyptian Army turned up. It appeared that we could not camp. Don’t know why but it was a definiate no no!!!! Explaining that we had this marked down as a camp site, but if it was a problem (which it obviously was, to them anyway) we would go now. Packing away in 30 seconds flat we started up and made to drive out when they made it quite clear that we had to wait. (I do wish they would make up there mind). Asking for a copy of out passport we gave them one of our “we prepared earlier sheets” copy of passport page driving licence, uk address etc that seemed to keep them happy for a while. Then I was given a phone by one of the solders. It turned out I was to speak to a Major in Army Intelligence. I thought HO SUGAR they are serious. His English was excellent as his manners. He apologised profusely but explained that camping in this area was totally forbidden and we had to move on. He offered an alternative site but it was going the wrong way. Thanking him we decided to head for Cairo. Driving out of the beach front we started to bog down in soft sand and ended up with the Egyptian army all pushing us out. I might add that the solders while having a job to do we very polite and not aggressive in any way. If you read this guys no hard feelings we know you were doing your job. We pushed on to Cairo. Everything they had said about the driving in Cairo was a lie. It was five times worse. If they cant go past on the outside, use the inside, if still no luck flash your lights and blow your horn and try to push through. (More than one had my high rear halogens in his face). I formulated a plan that if I used two lanes I could have a bit of room around me as a sort of safety zone. But when they saw the steel on Sandy it was obvious that were not too keen to play  close combat. Jackie said I dinked one but there was no marks on Sandy. In short it took 2 ½ hours to find the site. We must have driven around it 5 times. But nothing like a bit of fun!!!!!! 

36th Day 22st May Friday.

We stayed put. I had a service day. Managed to do a few jobs on Sandy. 

But two I may have to go to the local Land rover dealer for the rear pinion bearing (new before leaving but leaking) and the power steering box leaking. We will see, I have not been defeated yet! Jackie caught up on washing etc so a real exciting day. Mind you after driving through Cairo we need the rest. We have to stay in Cairo whilst we wait for the visas to be done for Sudan and Ethiopia but the owner of this camp site arranges for his brother who is a taxi driver to take us all down to the embassies, wait and bring us back. 

37th Day 23rd May. Saturday.

The taxi driver did indeed take us to the Ethiopian embassy where we applied for our visa, all very straight forward and were told to return the next day after eleven to pick it up. Had a look round Cairo it is as bad trying to cross the road as a pedestrian as it is to drive, what should only be three lanes of traffic the Egyptians turn it into six lanes. But we soon learnt the knack, get the other side of a local and when they cross you cross, if they stop in the middle you stop, but even so we had some near misses. Forget about crossing on a zebra crossing it does not count. So having met taxi driver back at the appointed place we were taken back to the camp site, and low and behold Steve and Katie had arrived as well. We had a catch up with them and time for tea, but being near to the Nile brings mosquitoes and flies lots of them so cooking of any sort is a bit of a pain. After tea Esther and Wurlly (the Swiss couple) also arrive so we our all back together again, as we all have to arrange the same visas. 

38th Day 24th May

To day is Sunday but the embassies are open so we all go off to Cairo, we picked our visa up from the Ethiopian embassy and then have to go across town to the Sudanese embassy to apply for a visa for Sudan. Before we could apply  we had to have a letter of introduction from the British Embassey. Have a read, it says it all!!!! but basicly says "we told you a letter was not needed"!!!!!!

We are going to Sudan first but we have to prove to the Sudan authorities that we have a visa for onward travel to Ethiopia. Now the Sudan embassy is something else, it’s like a hole in the wall and everybody is pushing and shoving in the queue, so an hour and half later we got out and told to return the next day to pick the visa up.  We spent a few hoursaround Cairo having a look around and then it was taxi time back to camp. When it had cooled down I went to work on the power steering box. Not wanting to have to go 80kl to the dealer I resorted to the well known method of if at first you don’t succeed cheat!!! I turned the seal inside out. Putting the old outer edge into the recess and the recessed edge to the outside to form the seal on the basis that it had been protected in the recess and the edges should be as sharp as when new. Regardless it worked. No leaks. Just to set up and we are in business once more. The pinion will have to wait until Kenya when I can find a dealer in Nairobi or Mombasa.

 39th Day. 25th May.

We had noticed that with being parked up and not running the engine that the auxiliary batteries could not keep up with the fridge and freezer in the heat. We had temperatures of close on 35d. Out charger only gave a trickle charge so I decided to buy a bigger one in Cairo. We left at about 10 to go to the Ethiopian Embassy to collect the visas for the Swiss contingent Whurley and Ester. Then it was back to the Suddenness Embassy to collect out visas which to our surprise was ready and waiting. (Maybe there is some organisation within the cave). A quick tour around again to find a battery charger and away we went to get ready for the off. My right inner ankle had about 35 bites on it) in the morning towards the desert (and away from the fly’s. 40th day. 26th May.Thee day was spent getting ready to move off in the morning. Lazy start and early finish. 41st day. 27th May.Away we went at about 9.30. Firstly to the largest supermarket in Cairo to stock up. Then off to the desert. Leaving Cairo we took the dual carriageway which was fine for 30kl then all of a sudden it stopped!!! We were on a motorway construction site. This bit was still being built but everybody used it as normal. This was a duel carriageway stone track that had not been levelled just loads of hard core pushed out with a dozer. You can imagine the state of it. Not too bad for us in the landy but it punished you if you went too fast. Regardless we continued onto tarmac once more, towards the Baharija Oasis. I will mention at this point that the police road checks are frequent and can be quite a pain. They record your registration number, nationality, where from, where to and sometimes your name. Most of the police only speak stock phrases, Nationality, from, to how many? They only take a moment or two to pass through but it’s the speed humps just before and after. Mind you the police at each end of the road check are normally armed with AK47’s which concentrates the mind on stopping. As we arrived at Ahmeds Hotel and Safari Camp we fount that Steve and Katie were already there. As there are limited camp sites to stop it is inevitable that you will meet up. 

42nd day. 28th May.

Down town to refuel and stock up on bread and big potatoes for the fire tonight. We had decided to tandem this part for safety in numbers in the desert. Firstly we hit the Black Desert.

It was quite a good tarmac road with desert on each side. Sand covered by what I can only call a black grit type substance. Hence the name. 100kl or so further on at Farafra the desert changed to a chalk/lime type substance mixed at times with sand. The rocks had eroded but only lower down leaving some strange shapes.

Mushrooms 30’ round. The wind blowing but they did not move. Very strange. We drove around for a few hours playing in the sand before we headed for an Oasis to camp the night. When we had set up camp a tour guide from another party came over and told us that it was not safe to camp as snakes came out at night to drink and it was not a safe place. All this not with standing we decided that we would stay. We had a good camp fire with baked potatoes and lamb chops. No lights to spoil the night view which was fantastic. The only animals we saw was a few Jackals. 43rd day. 29th May. Friday.Leaving the Oasis Steve and Katie decided to ply in the sand for a few hours

while we elected to start the trip to Luxor. With this in mind we went our different ways. Little did we know but our track out was an hour and a half of playing in the sand. Jackie was driving and she hit deep sand, rough rock terrain, semi vertical climbs. Both Jackie and Sandy took it all in their stride, just as if they had been doing it all the time. All I did was navigate and enjoy the ride. As we hit the tarmac once more we headed south through the desert towards Dakhia.44th Day.  30th May. Saturday.The Hotel where we went to camp was realy quite good. The El Forson Hotel Oasis and Camping at Dahab. They charged 60EP(Egyptian pounds 9 to the pound) to camp but for another 15 EP we could have a room. No contest really. We had the room. It was basic but clean and the bathroom was similar. We elected to have dinner and once more they looked after us very well. Spaghetti, Salad, Kebab, bread all for 50EP. Candles on the table, vase of flowers. Well impressed with them. If anybody is going that way don’t hesitate to use them they looked after us very well.  N2529270/ S02858652. Leaving quite early as we wanted to make Luxor that night and  had 436miles to cover. All went well until we arrived at a check point at Kharga. The check point itself was no problem, but as we left a Tourist police Car with 5 of them  started to follow us. As we approached the town centre we stopped to buy some bread. They came up to us and started to indicate that I was speeding. Now they have speed limits in Egypt but they are treated by the locals as arbitrary and used as a guide only. So no way this time. I suspected they were after a bit of “Backshee” (back hander) I played the game of no speekiee, no understandee with them.  It seems to work in UK for a lot of people. Leaving them to get the bread they followed. When we left they once more followed. We did a few about turns and true to form they continued to follow. They followed us all the way to the exit check point some 14 miles (close on 20kl). Waving them goodbye we continued onwards. A few miles further on we (sorry I realised that Jackie was right) we were going the wrong way. Turning around we went back to the check point. Explaining where wee wanted to go they directed us. 2 or 3 kl further down the road along came “Cluso and side kicks” flashing headlights and blowing horns. Jackie was not impressed. She was driving. As they came over to the Landy they came to my side. (they always want to talk to the man not the women). Jackie leaned out and called them, “Hey I’m driving come here”. They were that shocked they went round to her. To cut a long story short she told them where we wanted to go and told them to show us. Save you following us we will follow you. Don’t think they liked it but they did it to the next check point. ( A tip we picked up from the Mobile Hilton, John and Linda thanks guys). 

We continued on towards Luxor and 70kl from our destination in the desert we stopped on a raised rocky peninsular  for lunch. 30 min later we spied a brown Landy approaching, Steve and Katie with Tourist Police escort in tow complete with the full complement of 5 of Egypt’s finest in a VW caddy van. They stopped for lunch with us so we waved to police to join us  but to no avail. It seems they only do tarmac. So they sat in the sun, no shade. Leaving they continued to follow to the next check point. They may mean well but it seems so intrusive. The rest of the trip was uneventful arriving at Luxor for about 4 ish. The first job was have a beer in the bar. It was close to 40d. Got to the camp site which is called Rezeiky camping they have a swimming pool which is nice. We aim to do a fair bit of sight seeing whilst we are here, and will be moving on Wednesday to make our way down to Aswan to catch the ferry and to put Sandy on the barge for her trip to Sudan, this will take three days whilst the ferry for us takes two. It will be strange seeing her off because at the end of the day she is our home for the time being. At the moment there are five vehicles to go and we have all met up here at Rezeiky Camping

 

1st May to 4th May 45th day to 47th day.

 

Explored Luxor quite a lot, it is far nicer than Cairo, also visited The Valley of the Kings which was interesting but so hot there and not shade to speak of. The touts were there as normal which again is a pain. Did the normal sorting out of the land rover and gave it a good clean inside and out, there always seems to be sand everywhere. We have discovered that McDonald’s milk shakes very good in this temperature, and we can do the internet at the same time. Apart from this we spent the rest of the time in the pool as the temperature is now in the 40s and it is to hot to do anything else, and we are all very aware that the next campsite at Aswan has no pool so we are making the most of it whilst we can.                                                                                                                                                                                

 

5th May 48th Day. Thursday.

 

On the move again to day to Aswan which is where we catch the ferry to Sudan. We followed the Nile all the way down, but it was also very desert like in places. We passed some very old Egyptian villages on the way which was built in the traditional manor, bricks/blocks made out of mud and then dried out, with mud used as a cement to join them altogether. The streets between are very narrow and dusty with no drainage or lighting. This is the real Egypt, where people have lived for years without change still using the donkey and cart to move most things. The occasional tractor owned by the few wealthy farmers. The police have a very large presence, 15 check points on the way down. Not all manned but as you pass the manned ones they radio the next point. The temperature hit about 44d C on the way down. That was hot. Even with the front vents and windows open we still drank lots of water. Having enough water is not the problem but cooling it down quick enough is. The water in the tank is quite drinkable once it has been through the filters but its hot.   We bottle it and put it in the fridge but if we put too many bottles in the fridge cannot cope with the cooling. Today we drank about 10 bottles of water between the pair of us. But it was hot today. Even the floor of the Land rover was too hot to put your feet on. We arrived at Aswan at about 2.30 and went straight to McDonalds to log on to the internet and have a very cold milkshake. The camp site is basic. Not a lot of shades so the awning was first out and the tent up next to give some much needed shade. Just doing them two basic jobs left you feeling quite cream crackered. Needless to say after that it was cold beer time.

 

6th May 49th Day. Friday.

Today started a little cloudy. For a while it was nice and cool about 27/30d (dream on UK). But it was soon to get much hotter, up to 40d C. We went out to Aswan again to see the dam that they have built on the Nile to provide electricity and water for the fields. It is very strange to see very green fertile fields on each side of the Nile and then they stop and its just desert. Sand and rock, no use to anyone for growing anything.

Shopping in Aswan, now that’s a subject on its own. It is much like the rest of Egypt, no hassle. Not much!!! A lot of the touts think you came up the Nile on a Banana boat on Christmas Day. “Come look at my shop, What you looking for, I can help you, you need a taxi, you need a carriage, boat ride mister, hey English, nice lady, you lucky man. It can all be translated into give me your money, I don’t want to work but I want your money and you should give it all to me!!!!! But to be fair, that’s not all Egyptians.  Most of them are quite decent people who will and do help you. It’s just the touts

Who don’t know any better. If they left you alone you would have a browse through the shops and you might buy something. But you have to haggle on every price, most of them double the local price for the tourist. Now as a tourist you know you are going to pay a little more. But double is extracting the Michael out of Marks and Sparks. They do give Egypt a bad name and I can quite see why. In the end they will kill the tourist trade for Egypt unless the authorities start to clamp down. If you have been to Tenerife you know just that the touts are like but the Egyptians are 10 times worse.

 

50th day. 7th May Saturday.

 

We had to be down at the Shipping agent for 9.30 so we left the camp site in convoy for Aswan. We certainly turned a head or two, especially Philips truck. Parking up outside the office we duly went in to sort out the shipping. We have been told all sorts of stories about Mr Salah who runs the shipping agency, none of them good!  The prices rumoured ranged from reasonable to extortionate. He was described as a “grumpy old Muslim” so not knowing what to expect and fearing the worst as he held all the cards. None of us had had a reservation or a cabin confirmed at this point. With visas now close running out for majority of the now five vehicle group it was crunch time. Steve and Wurly had called in to see them on Thursday but they had refused to discuss anything until all vehicles were present. Deciding that it was better for one to act as spokesman I drew the short straw. Meeting Mr Salah I explained what vehicles we had and he quickly explained that we had a problem. (It looked like it was starting to run true to the rumours, none good). He explained that his barge would not accommodate all vehicles as he had a car and tree motor bikes already booked. He confirmed that two of the vehicles were provisionally booked but not the rest. Taking measurements of vehicles he gave me prices. For the cars at EP 2452 and EP5500 for Philips truck. He advised that to take all vehicles he would have to use the bigger barge and this would cost extra. I thought here we go. The difference was EP400 (£45.00) as a group we could live with that but first he had to confirm the larger barge. Telling us to come back in 30 or 40 min off we went dreading the outcome. Upon our return he confirmed the larger barge was available but!!!! The but was that if the car or 3 motor bikes did not turn up he would be looking for us to pay for the deck space on the larger barge. Not having many options we had to agree. Fortunately the car was confirmed within 30min that just left the bikes. Our next job was to go to the court to swear that we have had no accidents whilst driving in Egypt. Now this is like a court that you have never seen. Upon arriving we found a shed, a guard, a hole in the wall with bars on it and a doorway that looked like an entrance to a disused cellar and a man (without uniform) outside sitting on the pavement telling us that he prepared the paperwork for the court. Duly handing over our Egyptian driving licences he filled in numerous bits of paper. Taking us all through the cellar door we had to go up to the fourth floor of this invested building we met with three very well dressed gentlemen. We still do not know why we had to meet them all they did was welcome us to Aswan, (why the welcome, we were leaving. Smacks of left hand not knowing what right hand is doing). As we left they gave us a small piece of paper which apparently confirmed that we had not been involved in a traffic accident. Paying the pavement sitter EP11 for his services we left to find the traffic police to hand in our Egyptian number plates and obtain our certificate to enable customs to process the vehicles. Once more we were not disappointed when we found the traffic police. A little bit more business like but not much. Handing in the Egyptian number plates, driving license, and the piece of paper from the court and we were told to wait. We waited, waited, and we waited some more. About a hour and a half in total. Eventually they produced a sheet of paper each that we hand in to customs. In addition this piece of paper allows us to drive without Egyptian number plates or drivers licence until we load the vehicles on to the barge for Sudan. Mating two elephants would produce far less effort and be a darned sight quicker than the system they have in place. Having this magical piece of paper we went back to see Mr. Salah to confirm the barge. Confirming the barge we were told that only two cabins were available and the rest of the group would have to go on deck. No shade, very little space, not a nice prospect. 

Returning the following morning all was confirmed, with an extra cabin. So all was not lost. The three bikes had turned up, South Africans riding from Cairo to Cape Town on GS 800’s. So things were defiantly brightening up. Paying for the passenger cabins etc we now have to report to the dock by 10am on Monday when we clear customs, load the cars and board the boat. It apparently is a long drawn out affair that takes most of the day. But once on board we are off to Sudan. I might add that having dealt with Mr Sahal he really is a nice man. He tells it straight just how it is. His prices were to the list  Nothing like the man who was described to me at all.

 

More about the boat trip in Sudan but remember this is an African ferry, not a cross channel ferry. More later.

 

End of Egypt.