SUDAN

To view photo album of Sudan click on any photo.

Monday 8th June Day.

We left Aswan to go to the ferry port and upon arrival started the process of boarding. Now one assumes that the left hand knows what the right hand is doing. But this is not always the case. We were told upon arrival to park the car and go through security. OK!!!. But when you have been through security you then walk back the way you came with your luggage and go to the car. Please someone tell me the point of queuing, pushing and shoving to walk back to the car with your bags? Words fail me. You then drive down to the port office (loose term) to pay your shipping costs, exit costs and complete the paperwork. What a farce! Paperwork, paperwork. All the same. But eventually after paying exit taxes, passport stamps and anything else they can think of you drive out of the port and back in to go down to the docks, (another loose term Docks). Eventually you drive on to the barge. The loading ramp is bent, holes in the floor as you drive on. But on you go over the 12” step at the start of the ramp (good job we have a 4x4).

But soon all is safely parked. Well as safe as its going to be. But we are the lucky ones we have the big barge. You normally have to go on the small freighter parked across from side to side and drive up on your own sand ladders.

Then you pick up your screened luggage from the car and go to the boat. Now this is not a cross channel ferry worse luck! It’s an African ferry. And they can keep it. What a state, we have never seen anything like it. We booked a first class cabin (please do not get excited its not what you think) bunk beds, a work top and an air conditioning unit was about it, but believe you me it was better than going second class with everybody  hemmed in like sardines.

Luggage everywhere and people just lying wherever, bearing in mind this was an overnight ferry. However we finally left Aswan at around 4 o clock in the afternoon, it was still very hot with very little shade anywhere on top of the boat. People were under life boats trying to keep cool. We were entitled to a meal which consisted of a chicken drumstick, beans (we think) some sort of sauce and some rice.

Tuesday 9th June.

We met an English guy called Sam who is cycling from England down to Kenya, now you might think us mad but all credit to the guy. Also on the boat were the three South Africans on motorbikes (BMWS GS800). They flew them up to Cairo and are riding down to Cape Town. So, to bed it was and surprisingly we had a good nights sleep.  Jackie woke up with loads of new bite marks on her so not sure about the bedding although we used our sleeping bags. We docked at about 10.30 in the morning but we were kept on the boat because we had to fill in more forms. We had our temperatures checked to make sure we have not got swine flu and wait for the return of our passports.  We were all warned by the Sudanese police that ladies had to cover shoulders at all time as bare shoulders were not tolerated, that went down like a lead balloon in certain quarters. Finally at about 1 o clock we got off the boat. So here we are in Sudan at Wadi Halfa on terra firma, or to be more precise looking at the boat  docked on the beach!!!! We then enlist the help of a fixer who is supposed to make the process easier to circumvent the paperwork, but not to sure how effective he was. We were then told to go to the customs terminal via the bus. Talk about push and shove, as a group we pushed and shoved as well so we all got on! If we had stood and queued we would still be waiting.

Customs was quite easy, we walked through. Little stickers on the bags, show passports and go. The fixer did quite a good job as it happens on this bit.

Our transport to the “Hotel” was a Land rover circa Second World War. (For 11 its, tight) Paint stripped off the sides but it ran.

The "HOTEL"  

Now the hotel.  Yes we will come back to that in a moment. Wadi Halfa, now think of John Wayne going into town on his horse. They have the side walks (sort of) Dirt track road or should I say sand track. Donkeys pulling carts, being ridden, tethered or just walking free. Pick up trucks that are so badly battered that the manufacture would be proud that they still run. Even Jeremy Clarkson could not batter them as much as this. J type Bedford trucks, (They stopped making them in 1977 for export only)and lights are not obligatory as mud wings, doors or rear view mirrors or any other normal useful accessory but they may be decorated for ornamental needs with lots of bling, flags and paint. Now back to the “Hotel”, to  describe the setting. Let’s just think for a moment. Imagine, yes let’s just imagine a run down hotel. Not the best in the world but bit grubby, wooden doors, toilets, shower, running water, chair, etc, etc. Now the reality is the Wadi Halfa Hotel is not fit to put livestock in. If you can conjure up an image of  a wide corridor 12’ (for the younger generation who are reading this in a bored trance that’s 4 mtrs) of crumbled block walls about 130’ (40 mtrs) long. The roof covered in what I will describe as reeds and wobbly tin (corrugated iron). The cells, sorry rooms (please see the photo and see that this Over landing lark is not all fun).    

The room wall decor is out of this world, white wash with flaking patches and coordinated reed ceiling complete with large hole. (sorry ventilation shaft) The doors and windows are made to last, sheet steel with matching angle iron edging. The floor, yes the floor. What can one say. Looked like an apprentice had laid a weak mix of concrete. Now moving on to the bathroom. Yes let’s move on and quite quickly. Shared facilities. Hole in the floor, perfumed without running water. You get the picture!!!! We declined to post a photo on the grounds of possibly being censored for putting an X rated (dirty) photo on the web site. And trust me it would be dirty! Shall we say we held our powder dry until another day. Washing was take a bucket and fill it with water to wash in your cell, (sorry room). Patrick McGowan had a life of luxury as no 6, trust me.

The rest of the day was quite uneventful, meal at the local restaurant, not bad and all for £4.5 for two, by the way the hotel cost 14 Syrian Pounds (3.5 to the UK £) but we would have rather paid more.

Wednesday 10th June.

What an experience that night was. Most of the people moved beds outside as it was a lot cooler. Apparently this is normal and explains the chunks missing around the doors of the rooms. Steel beds, steel doors what a racket. But bright and early we went back down to the port (sandy cove) to reclaim out vehicles. Wonder of wonders they had parked the barge by a Jetty. It took all of 10 min to get the five vehicles and three bikes off. Next it was customs for vehicle inspection. Looking at the local vehicle park one would have thought they would be glad to have some decent kit. After close to a 2 hour wait they managed to check chassis and engine numbers. Great we thought off we go. No this is Africa!! We waited, and waited some more. Eventually they came to check the contents of the vehicles. Now Sudan is a tee total state and alcohol is forbidden totally. The fact that you cannot buy it may have had a slight bearing on our decision to only stay for two weeks. Not that we would break any rules knowingly. So the content inspection was quite important for us all to pass through with no breach of the regulations. Fortunately we all passed with no problems. Parked outside the “Hotel” we loaded up and went to the local market for fresh supplies. In spite of what we have described the locals so far are nice people who treat you fair, charge the same price and don’t try to rip you off in total contrast to Egypt. Leaving in convoy we headed south to the Nile. Now they have just built a new road and it is new, new. But why do they suddenly leave 25 mtrs of uncovered subsurface? This happened time after time. Then the road stopped and reverted to a track. (now we see Africa the way it was) Driving through the villages we eventually camped up by the Nile for the night. To our surprise Sam the (soon to be our adopted push biker) turned up. True he had started at 7am but through the heat and sand etc he had covered close on 100kl. Top man.

But tonight it was to be our own bed, have a shower and be clean with freshly cooked food, Oh what bliss!

Thursday 11th June.

Magnificent, to wake up looking over the Nile. Birds singing, bright clear sky, donkeys braying loudly early in the morning (so it’s not all good). Left camp around nine and we headed for Temple Soleb which is over the other side of the Nile, a local offered to take us across for 200 US Dollars. We declined as we all thought it was a lot of money. But later we realised the price was not so bad but it was too late and too far to go back. We continued on the road which was still newly laid, suddenly it stopped and went to sand and stone again. Sometimes we could get up to 60 mph other times were down to 15mph. Jackie drove for best part of the day which she loved. We once more found a lovely spot by the Nile for the night. 

Friday 12th June

Woke up to three local watchers and a donkey (locals with nothing better to do but stand and stare but they mean no harm.) Set off on local road but soon it turned to a track through the desert, most of the morning was driving from point to point. Found Kerma village as we were looking for bread and supplies. Whilst there we stopped for a coke and had the third degree from a local policemen who asked the normal questions, where you from, where you go, what nationality. Again found a nice spot by the Nile for the night in the desert. Not a track in sight just sand dunes. We must stress at this point that although this sounds lovely, we are running on sand for the larger part of the time which is hard work for the driver and the vehicle. But can be great fun all the same. Our feet are taking a major battering, it is too hot for socks so its just flip flops in all the dirt and sand but we have just gone past caring.

Saturday 13th June

Left camp at 10.30 drove out of the desert mainly in low range and diff lock until we found firm sand and then road. When we hit the tarmac Steve and Katie’s landrover threw a wobbly, it would not drive without diff lock. The front wheels and prop could be rotated individually which smacks of a half shaft or diff gear in the front axle. So they drove with the diff lock engaged to drive on the rear axle. About 5 or 6 kl further on both rear wheels locked up. Both prop shafts had to be disconnected and we are now taking it in turns between the three of us to tow them into Khartoum some 385 km away so they can get it repaired. The temperature is very hot today as it has reached 47 degrees so we are all feeling it much more but so are the guys as they have to concentrate so much more with towing. We are drinking at least 3lt each of water every day.  So many dead animals today, or should I say the carcasses.  Mostly camels and donkeys it’s a sad sight. Nice spot by the Nile again. Out of the way looking over the river bank. I bogged into loose sand as soon as I stopped. You know it is going to happen but once you pass a certain point your in, like it or not.

Sunday 14th June.

It was decided to have an early start as we needed to get to Khartoum today and we had to tow all the way. But first things first. Steve’s land rover was well and truly stuck. Roy tried to pull him out with his Toyota but to no avail, as did Wurly in the Merc so then Bob winched him out.  The first time the winch has been used in anger. So we set off taking it in turns to tow Steve and Katie arriving in Khartoum at around 2.30. We went straight to the camp site, or should I say more of a car park with a shower which was far from good. We decided to stay in a hotel as we were in need of a good clean up so we treated ourselves and checked into a hotel but found there was no running water, welcome to Sudan!  However, we promptly found another. We concluded that unless you stay in one of the top named hotels then you are really not sure what you are going to find. The air conditioning unit proved to have a noise like a plane taking off, so I turned it off and put ceiling fan on. But then we just sweated buckets (sorry perspired heavily) so on the air con went and we put up with the noise.

Monday 15th June

Went to the camp site to see the others, they themselves had not had a good night, no wind at all and the temperature during the night was still 30 degrees. Bob took Steve to look for the garage to get his repairs done and our rear pinion seal. Now Tracks for Africa has lots of info listed and a Land rover garage was just the ticket. It did not look inspiring, but they knew what they were doing and English was not a problem. (The most important factor). They collected Steve’s Truck on a low loader, and off it went.

Tuesday 16th June.

Bob and Steve went off to the garage early in the morning Katie and Jackie stayed at the camp site to catch up on washing etc. The others in the group went to Merowe to the Pyramids for an overnight stay and to wild camp. My Landy went in for the pinion. On the way a noise came from the gear box. (It was like going to the doctors with a pain and then having your appendix out. Continue to see). Steve’s truck was stripped down by 9.30. Mine was pounced upon. Long story short Steve’s truck needed a front diff. The pinion shaft had sheered. He was back on the road that night. Mine still made a noise from the gear box that had been reconditioned in UK. The solution to my problem was simple, gear box out and strip!!!!!!!! But not until Wednesday. Having no wheels we had to use Sandy to go to the camp site. Bad, Bad move on my part. I should know better. Steve and Bob came back, Steve was all smiles and our car was sick. Despite the setbacks we are enjoying Sudan, we were very apprehensive to begin with given the troubles in the south of the country but unlike Egypt the people are very friendly and are very welcoming. We have come across a few beggars but not once have we been asked for any baksheesh (tip) again like in Egypt. When Sandy is fixed we intend to visit the Pyramids also before we head off to the border to enter Ethiopia.

Wednesday 17th June.

Last night Sandy just made the camp site. The rumble from the gear box became a serious banging. Fortunately Steve towed me in to the gararge. We settled payment for the work done so far. Having removed the gearbox once previously I had no desire to do it again. We booked into the Regency Hotel. This one has running water etc etc more to what Jackie would like to become accustomed to. Now this hotel has a super swimming pool, but!!! You never see any ladies in the pool. They only swim with children and fully clothed so Jackie is not impressed as this precludes her from sun bathing or swimming as it appears to be men only and she would be the centre of attention shall we say.

I went off to collect a package from DHL and to the garage at about 3pm. The box was out, stripped and two of the gears were totally, well see the photos. Parts available next day for fitting. I am looking at another night in the hotel as I think it will be rebuild and start to fit on Thursday, finish on Friday. (Hopefully).

Thursday 18th June.

Oh dear! tomorrow is Friday. That means if Sandy is not finished today work will stop until Saturday. It is looking possible but bleak. But they are charging fair prices and doing the job well so it would be counter productive to complain or push too hard. We will update later today. 

Ok, we received a call from the garage to say Sandy was ready, just one small problem well a massive one really, the cash points in Sudan do not accept Western cash point cards, and we are roughly 100 SPS short, but Bob went off a couple of hours ago and has not been seen since. I on the other hand have been to the pool several times to try and have a swim but the pool is full of children with the mothers sitting around the pool fully clothed, some with a face veil on so perhaps it is not a good idea for me to have a swim. So to pass the time I turned on the shower in our room to give my hair some much needed attention and I kid you not the water was dark brown, so on the phone to reception only to be told just let it run for a while and it will get better, GREAT!!! It did get better, so hair got the attention it needed and I proceeded to dry it with my drier when low and behold it stopped. I assumed we had a power cut, so tried the lights and they were working. I plugged the dryer in another socket and all was ok. That is until I went into the bathroom, no electricity!! Have now rang reception and I am still waiting for maintence man to show. He eventually came to the room an hour after ringing only to um and ar and tried the light switches a few times then said he would be back soon. I asked him what he meant by SOON and he replied LATER!! Great stuff, now I have a bathroom in darkness at 7 O’ clock and a missing husband and no car. I can really think of better places than Sudan to be abandoned!! Maintenance man came back after three quarters of an hour fiddled with the fuse box and bathroom lights now working. Have also had a call from missing husband ( he had our mobile with him so he rang the room) he has collected Sandy what took so long I have no idea, but was going off to pick some money up. Missing husband returns and sits down like he has been working hard all day!!!!! The gears in Sandy are not right, he was too late to collect the money and does not feel hungry where I am starving and quickly tell him so. Looks like we eat in the hotel tonight. Bob is back at the garage in the morning as they are coming in to hopefully sort the gear selector out.

Friday 19th June,

Back to the garage at 10am. The gearbox was out on the floor, they were already hard at work and did they work. I changed some US dollars to pay the hotel bill in local currency. Where we thought that the hotel rate included breakfast we found out it didn’t. After some debate we had to pay or walk out. Jackie would not be happy inside one of there prisons while I sorted things out so I elected to pay. Returning to Sandy the gear box was back in. While it worked ok the diff lock light was not working. While this is not desperate in its self my worry was if the diff lock worked. Fixing the light and checking the diff lock off we went to the Blue Nile Camping as we had to go to Western Union in the morning. Arriving we met up with a group travelling from SA to Alexandria, but tonight we have a good sort out in the back of Sandy and hit the road to Monroe for the pyramids tomorrow.