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Kenya.
To view photo album, click on any photo.
Wednesday 8th July.
Everything was quite straight forward leaving Ethiopia and on the Kenyan side too. Health check, (not sure what it was for as they never checked our vaccination certificates etc) but when we came to pay for the Visa it had to be in US, Sterling or Euros. None of which we had enough off. I had $30 in US but as it had been wet it had dye from my wallet and they would not accept it. Kenyan Shillings was no good. We wanted to get into Kenya and they wont accept there own currency, someone tell me why? In the end we borrowed $40.00 from Urli (The Swiss). And through we went into Marlowe on the Kenyan side. We went shopping for some meat, coffee, bread and phone card. The camp site while fine for camping, the facilities were a bit dire. And at $15 per person was very expensive but unfortunately you are left with two choices. With nowhere else to go you are really left with one choice.
Thursday 9th July.
Leaving around 8.30 we first hit the bank to get some Kenyan Shillings. Hitting the road at about 9ish we headed off into the dreaded Kenyan Myollie road!!! Now a word or two about this road, or should I call it a dirt track!!!!!!!. (That’s being nice about it believe you me). This road has apparently been tarmaced from end to end three times. How is it then that not a bit of tar is visible??? If car manufactures want to test a new model then this is the place to do it. Rough, is not the word. At first it was not too bad. But this was only to lull you into a false sense of security. It degenerated into a track with rocks and stones, worse of all were the corrugations that shook your car to bits.
 The local drove at about 50mph putting up clouds of dust. But they only have to get to the end of the track we have to do another 15000 miles still so do so beating the car is not an option. Our speed was about 15mph average with 5mph in places. Bearing in mind we had about 160m the first day and similar the second day. If it has been raining they say it can take two days for each half. Fortunately it was dry so while the road is rough it is passable.
The first leg took about 10 hours and did we know we had done it. You have to keep watching the track for rocks, dips, holes and other vehicle at all times you just cannot let your guard drop. Eventually we arrived at Henrys Rest Camp at Marsabit, don’t know why it’s called Henrys as he is Swedish and it’s not even close to his name. Unfortunately they were suffering a server water shortage as they had no rain last year and this year so far is no better. Water is imported from 100kl away in drums. So wastage is not on the agenda.
Friday 10th July.
Leaving Henrys we said goodbye to Urli and Esther as they were going to Lake Turkana. We were heading south to Isiolo some 175 miles south on the same road. This half was worse than the first half. Very sever corrugations, ruts, dips and rocks just waiting to smash the diff or cut the tyre on the unwary. Dust once more was horrendous. Progress was slow but steady. Eventually at about 6pm we came upon road works! Yes they were laying a new road alongside the dirt track. Bliss!!!!!! No other word for it. The temporary road was better than the original one and 10 mile further on we came to tarmac. It was like driving in heaven. Smooth, quite, never again will I berate the roads in UK, never. Finding our camp we arrived at about 7pm just as it was starting to get dark. There is no doubt that had the road works not been in place we would have been driving in the dark. Not to be recommended in Africa at any time but especially on this road.
Saturday 11th July.
Clean up day. We stripped every thing out of Sandy and removed about ½ a ton of sand. It was everywhere, even under the seat boxes. By 2.30 we had just finished cleaning. A quick shower later and we went down town to find supplies. While in town we met Anthony a New Zealander who was travelling north on a motor bike. Looking for a place to stay we found him at the site when we returned.
Sunday 12th.
Breakfast and away. We intended to go to a national park but we are told the price is $125 US for entry so we are thinking about that one. Down town we saw an internet café so we intend to try to update the website if possible. We made our way to Mwingi to see Sam the English cyclist, we had intended to give him a lift along the Moyale road but we had no signal on leaving Ethiopia so we mist him. We assumed he had already arrived in Mwingi as he left Ethiopia quite a few days before we did. On arriving in Mwingi we rang him and low and behold he has only just got to the Kenyan border, so a bit of a wasted trip, so we just found somewhere to camp for the night.
Monday 13th July
Left Mwingi to head for Nairobi, about 120 miles to do. We had the wheel wobble back again today but much worse. The corrugations of the Moyale road have done it no good, so while we are in Nairobi we will get it looked at. Found where the campsite was, only it was no longer there, instead it was replaced with an office building. But then a guy came running over and said it has moved and he would show us where to so Jackie jumped in the back. Arrived at Upperhill campsite to a very warm welcome.
Tuesday 14th July
The campsite is good and has a very relaxed feel. It’s clean and tidy with plenty of hot water, such a change from Ethiopia. Contacted the Landrover dealer in Nairobi this morning and Sandy is going in on Thursday for suspension bushes and steering. She may well be kept in overnight (she sounds like a patient) so we may have to get the little tent out. We have planned our route for Kenya today, when we leave Nairobi we will head to Lake Natasha and head up to Uganda. Went to the local shops and we have been able to purchase BACON!!! We have not had bacon since Egypt, its funny how you miss these little things isn’t.
Wednesday 15th July
After a most fantastic fry up this morning we got a taxi down town. Visited two shopping centres which were great, so nice to see proper shops again instead of shacks, so nice that we spent most of the day looking around. We got back and got our tent out of the back and erected it, it’s not bad and bigger than what we thought. Bob moved Sandy to the top of the sight as she has to be at the garage for 8 0’ clock in the morning that way we won’t wake everybody up. There is an overland truck here with a lot of youngsters on it, they are on there summer break from university, they also are on there way to Uganda.
Thursday 16th July
Sandy was safely delivered to the garage so we are going to have a catch up day, website, internet ect. Hopefully we might get her back by the end of the day if not it will definitely be tomorrow. The weather is overcast today but still warm, Kenya has not had a rainy season this year, everything is so brown, apparently the farmers in the north are taking there live stock over to Ethiopia for water and grazing.
Friday 17th July
We did get Sandy back yesterday afternoon which was a bonus as it saves us from sleeping in the little tent on the floor although it took over an hour to drive the 5 kl back to camp in the rush hour traffic. Today Bob fitted the new shock absorbers and a few other bits so she is getting back towards as good as new although we still have to put new clippers on the rear breaks as one is leaking.
Saturday 18th July to Wednesday 22nd July
The rest of the time in Nairobi was spent just relaxing. Douglas (a Canadian who it seems spends most of his life travelling around the world) stays at this campsite for long periods of time and he has thousands of different colour beads and has showed me how to make a necklaces.
We also visited an elephant orphanage which was really interesting. They are there either because they have been abandoned by there mother or they have been injured. Some have been caught in game traps with bad injuries, some the mothers shot for the Ivory by poachers. It is quite funny to see them following the handler who not only feds them but sleeps with them as well.
We met another couple of travellers, Carl and Nicola who are South African from Johannesburg travelling down to Kenya, and then returning home again. It was refreshing to find out that Johannesburg is not quite as bad as what the news makes out although it has it moments I am sure. The route that we have to do is very similar to what they have just done so they were able to pass on some invaluable advice and help on roads and game parks.
I went shopping to a large supermarket to stock up with everything as we intend to leave Nairobi tomorrow and having plenty of food is defiantly good.
Thursday 23rd July
Left Nairobi to go to Lake Naivasha with the intention of going to the game park at Hells Gate National Park. Found a lovely campsite right on the lake which had a nice bar and restaurant. We went for a walk round the lake but had to be away from the lake by 6 0’ clock as they turn the electric fencing on then to keep the Hippos away from the campsite. Did some research into the National Park and found that there was not a great deal in this park and the cost was very high, so we have decided to go to Nakuru National Park tomorrow instead as the difference in cost is only $10.00.
Friday 24th July
Set off early for Nakuru which was only sixty miles away? We stopped at the local shopping centre to call at the bank to obtain some US dollars for entry into Uganda and Rwanda. They all want the dollar for visas. Doesn’t give you much confidence in their own currency. But the time we left it was pushing 11am. After arriving at Nakuru we stopped at this restaurant for some lunch, sausage and chips for both of us and two coffees which came to a grand total of 190 Kenyan shillings, £1.50 sterling and you could see why! Next time I pick the lunch spot, Jackie can pick hers. But to be fair to them they charged us what they would charge a local so you can’t complain. We made our way to the park entrance and paid 60 dollars each to get in and decided to stay at one of the campsites within the park, this however proved to be very expensive at 25 dollars each but there was limited choice and we were right in the park so no travelling in the morning. The Kenyans only have to pay 300 Kenyan shillings to get in and you see them driving around it great big 4x4 V8. If it was for the less fortunate Kenyans I wouldn’t mind but I do mind subsidising the rich and wealthy. Driving around the park for a few hours we then went to the camp site.
  Not a lot for your money. We made a great fire for cooking tea on and keeping the monkeys and Baboons away. As we were the only ones there so it was a bit spooky, more so because we could hear the monkeys and baboons in the trees surrounding us and it sounded like a great fight going on at one point. Everything was put inside for fear of loosing it or seeing it at the top of a tree in the morning.
25th July Saturday
We had set the alarm for 5.30 to make sure we were in the park early, because if there had been a kill it would be early. Jackie was cooking some bacon when out of nowhere the monkeys and baboons appeared. They were curious to say the least, (nothing to do with the smell of the food apparently) then all of a sudden a baboon ran over. Jackie ran to get in the car screaming abandoning me at the rear of the car, but that baboon was right on her tail and it tried to get in the car with her. She was trying to pull the door shut and the Baboon was trying to open it to get in with her. The Baboon was half in and I think her screams eventually scared it off. They certainly scared me! She shut the door and sat for a minute to recover. Breakfast did not happen as we just packed up and left the campsite as there was too many of them around.
We had a great day and saw Lions, Zebras, Giraffes, White Rhino, Gazelles, Impala and Waterbucks. There were places where you could stop and get out of the vehicles, (most places if you were not going to end up as dinner), when you were high up the views were stunning.
We left the park around 3.30 and went to a local camp site. When we arrived they informed us that they now don’t do camping, (strange as they are listed in the new book). We were offered a room instead but as we were tourists they wanted $270 US for thee night. They were told quite quickly that we were tourists not stupid and had no intention of paying over the odds and found that charging us extra for being a tourist was insulting. We left and found a camp site 15 miles away. A proper site with proper facilities. Now we have the new updated version of Tracks 4 Africa finding everything is so easy as it takes us straight to where ever you want to go it makes the navigation so much easier.
26 th July Sunday
This campsite is great; there are a lot of people here as there are three large overland trucks here so we will more than likely spend a couple of days here. They have big log fires in the evening to sit around and everybody is so friendly. We spoke to one of the drivers of the overland trucks and he gave us some good tips on where to see the animals for free and not pay the excessive charges that they were demanding for the parks.
27th July Monday
Just spent the day relaxing really, met a family from England who have flown out for a five week holiday visiting the game parks and finally a week or so at the coast at Mombassa.
28th July Tuesday
Left camp Kembu at Njora and called in the internet café to update website. We then left to make our way down to the Maasai Mara game park. We do not intend going in the park but it is the migration season and a sight to see. The Rift Valley has stunning scenery. We have also seen some sheep for the first time since arriving in Africa, so we can have lamb again instead of goat or beef for a change. While travelling down to Kericho we stopped to buy some vegetables at a local roadside stall. Just after we had started the car to go a motorbike came past minus the rider who quickly followed mid air. His landing looked quite bad but fortunately he only sprained an ankle. His bike was not too bad and it looked like he had hit a rack of speed humps (4 in a row) a bit too quickly. But if they painted them it would help.
The camp site is situated at the Tea Hotel at Kericho which is apparently named after the English tea planter John Kerich, Kericho is the tea capital of Kenya. We could have use of the hotel pool if we wanted but declined as the water was freezing and none too clean either. We did however have a meal in the hotel in the evening as for a three course meal it was only 600 shillings below £6.00. While we were there an overland truck dropped in with about 20 people on board for the night.
29th July Wednesday
So we set off for the final leg of our journey to the south and going to a camp site called Richards camp. On the way we saw hundreds of workers in the fields picking the tea leaves, it certainly is a busy industry here. Continuing south and very near to the Masa Mara we saw so many animals it was a fantastic sight, we stopped for lunch with Zebras and Giraffes just wondering around, it doesn’t get much better than that. After lunch we got totally lost; some how come off the route big time. We ended up going cross country, crossing rivers, down deep ravines, zigzagged our way through a forest, over the most horrendous gulleys in the track where the rain has washed the road away. But we loved it and Sandy performed well and did what she does best. At one point we were following a tractor and trailer with 3 people in the trailer. They kept looking back at us and laughing. The track was getting worse, it was diff lock and low range as the ruts were two foot deep and many a time you had two wheels in the air. Following them down a steep bank that was taken in second gear low, we came to the river that had to be crossed at some point. The smiles from the three guys in the trailer were getting bigger. When we pulled out of the river on the other side behind them we found out the reason for there amusement. The way out was close to vertical! The tractor stopped at the bottom and engaged low gear with I assume diff locks and slowly trundled up the bank. Not wishing to look a complete prat by turning around we decided that it was all or nothing. Waiting for them to get close to the top we set off, lots of revs, low gear, and diff locks in. By the time they reached the top we were right up behind them with two of the biggest grins you have ever seen out of a land rover windscreen, but no more smiles from the tractor crew. She did what it says on the badge, LAND ROVER.
Having eventually arrived at Richards’s camp, in the middle of the savannah shrouded in trees. It was a stunning setting which took your breath away but it was getting fairly late by now. He told us it was now an exclusive tented camp where people pay bucket loads of money to stay there. In other words they did not want us there with our little roof tent paying the normal 300 shillings £3.00 a night. He was very apologetic and even gave us a drink but he said the other people staying there would not be happy if he let us stay. He did however suggest one of the lodges down the road as he thought they allowed people to camp. So we set off found the lodge and we were greeted by a lady with hot flannels in her hand, she no doubt assumed we were already staying there. By this action we knew this was not any ordinary lodge and not one where we were going to be allowed to stay that’s for sure, we were right.!!! The lady suggested somewhere else so once again we set off, it is now starting to get dark so we were getting pretty desperate when we found ourselves at a small airstrip. There was a guy in a land rover there that was picking up a pilot who had just flown in and presumably to take him to one of the nice lodges which we could not stay at. He suggested we go to the hippopotamus sanctuary, he was sure they would not turn us away. We did just that, and were met by about six rangers who guard the sanctuary. They were delighted to have us there which was just as well because we really didn’t want to bush camp out there without any sort of protection.
One of the rangers took us to see the hippos; they were in huge log compounds for a variety of reasons, injury, illness or whatever. When we got back we proceeded to get tea, we even fed the two rangers who would be on duty through out the night.
There was very little to do there so we decided to sit in the tent and read for a while. When we told the rangers this they sat them selves down on our chairs right at the bottom of the roof tent ladder. Jackie had the giggles when in the tent knowing they were down there, but pleased all the same as there were some dangerous animals around.
Thursday 30th July
We got up quite early, thanked the rangers and took a picture of them all before we left. Setting off at about 7.30 we headed for the Maasai Mara. Taking the longer route around the local area to see the game. Finding a herd of Hippopotamuses in the river we just sat and watched them wallowing in the mud and water.
Stopping for breakfast on the plain we counted about 9 different species of animal grazing. It was quite something to see. Continuing south we found we were looking at animals all the way down to the Maasai Mara. There were so many animals outside the fences it did not make sense to pay the $120 to go in the park. We did however find out that the migration was not really happening as it does normally because of the shortage of rain which was disappointing for us. Finding a camp site conveniently just outside the entrance gate to the park we pitched camp. Not long after our Dutch friends Roy and Sandy turned up which was nice, we last saw them in Nairobi which was about 7 days ago. It was a very pleasant evening chatting and catching up on what we had all been doing and where we had been. We also received a text message from Steve and Katie, the other English couple to say they were down in Nairobi staying at the Jungle Junction campsite. That was our destination tomorrow as we have to go back up north to Nairobi ourselves to go and collect a parcel that has been sent out from England. Customs are trying to charge duty on it so we have to go and let them see our passports and carni. So at least we will be able to see Steve and Katie again and also the French are there as well, they have not been see since Ethiopia.
Friday 31st July
Said cheerio to Roy and Sandy but no doubt we will bump into them again soon as our routes are similar. We headed off for Nairobi which is a seven hour drive from here and we now know why. The road was appalling almost all the way but some was new tarmac. How do they balance the contract in road conditions begger belief? We arrived at Jungle Junction for about 4 pm just in time to set up and catch up with Steve, Katie and the French. The BBQ was spot on T bone steak!!!! That’s the way to do it. Unfortunately we ended up sat with a couple of South Africans and he had a taste for brandy. Well you just had to keep him company.
Saturday 1st August
We woke up to a cloudy day, it is much warmer down in the south. After breakfast (crispy bacon rolls) we set off to the airport to the DHL office with in the airport to collect our parcel. When we got back Jackie realised there were washing machines on the site, she was so excited as she has not seen one for some time. She picked up a laundry bag from reception which was the size of a pillow case, and was informed that it is 350 shillings (£3.00) per bag. She proceeded to fill it getting as much as she could in. It is then given to a lady who washes it, hangs it out on the line and when dry folds it neatly and places it back in bag and delivers it back to you. Jackie was impressed with that, so much so that she might not want to leave.
Sunday 2nd August
Spent the day doing bits and pieces before we move off tomorrow. The water filter has become blocked so Bob emptied the tank out and flushed it out, we now have flowing water again. We also put a lot of pictures on the website with the Picasso web album which enables people to view them twice the size and as a slide show. We managed to get the Kenya pictures done we will do the rest when we have internet again.
Monday 3rd August
We are leaving Nairobi today for the second time and heading up to camp Kembu at Njora. This was a nice campsite and worthy of a second visit. From here we will be heading for the Uganda border but firstly visiting plenty of places on route.
A visit to the supermarket was a priority before we left Nairobi; the supermarket is big so it is stock up time as it will be sometime we think before we get a supermarket this good again. There are however plenty of stalls on the side of the roads selling fresh fruit and vegetables quite cheaply and the money goes direct to the people who grow the produce. So shopping was done and we headed up to Njora arriving at about 3ish. Shortly after Heri and Laura arrived who we met briefly at Massai Mara, Heri is Swiss and Laura English although they live in Switzerland. Then Steve and Katie turned up, they have axle problems so are going to stay here and fix it tomorrow. Closely followed by Roy and Sandy. Had a pleasant evening with a few glasses of wine, playing cards and catching up with the news of what everybody had done.
Tuesday 4th August
Decided to stay here today as the weather is hot so a lazy day in store, having said that the washing has been done (back to doing it by hand), Bob is tinkering with things as always. The maps were out to plan where we go next. There are a couple of lakes not far from here with very nice campsites so worth a visit we think.
Wednesday 5th August
Decided to head for Lake Baringo to day, it is we are told a beautiful setting and it is only 100kls so that will do us nicely. We called down town first as we are looking to by a solar panel to put on the roof as we are having problems keeping the fridge and freezer running together when we park up for a few days. It’s all ok if we are moving every day. The problem arises if we stop somewhere two or three days and have to rely on battery power if the camp sites have no electric sockets. So we ordered one, although we have to come back to Nakuru in a few days to collect. They have to make a frame to mount it on the roof that will allow it to hinge up at one end to give access to put the tent up and down.
We did a small shop for groceries and set off for the lake. It’s only a couple of hours which is great, unlike Ethiopia which had vast distances to travel between places. Had a pleasant lunch stop, whilst we were stopped a herd of cows came past and this bit is for Jim and Maura’s benefit. Jackie did not freak out; she sat and allowed the cows to walk past her. Now that’s a first.
The campsite is fantastic; we parked about 500 ft from the lake meeting up again with Heri and Laura,
We were told not to park too near the lake as Hippos come out the water at dusk to graze so we will watch with interest. Wow! We didn’t have to wait to long. Sure enough they were there, although we didn’t see them actually come out the water. There were nine that we could see, some were truly massive but there were a couple of baby ones as well. We spent ages watching them, just sat round a camp fire that we had made it was just fabulous.
Thursday 6th August
We are staying here for another night as it is just lovely, there is a swimming pool at the lodge next door which we are allowed to use which is good enough for me. Today’s itinerary is just to relax, have a swim and do a spot of sunbathing. Hopefully we will catch the hippos coming out of the water tonight as it will make some great pictures if it’s not too dark. It was fantastic to see these huge mammals emerging from the water. We sat around just watching them graze although it was now dark we could still see them through the binoculars. However we were more than shocked when three of them appeared 10ft in front of us out of the bushes. Believe me none of us moved a muscle. During the night you could hear them grazing, we kept looking out of the tent to see how close they were but they were just interested in feeding.
Friday 7th August
Time to leave today; we are heading off to Maralal to a Camel Derby weekend. Apparently dozens of competitors arrive at this place from South Africa, Australia, and China to name just a few countries. They then battle it out over a 42 km course to find the champion. The road there was interesting (rough, dirt, ruts, stones, tarmac it wasn’t) which took some concentration to avoid the pot holes. Arriving at about three we set up camp with Heri and Laura.
Saturday 8th August
We were not disappointed with the Camel Derby and can quite honestly say we have never seen anything quite like it. The amateur race was today, the professional tomorrow. At the start line watching the camels and there riders getting into position the amateurs have somebody leading the camel so if the leaders can run fast they will stand more of a chance. The camels were facing all different directions anywhere but to the front, when the flag went up. The camels were going in all directions. They had to ride for 6 miles so we spent the time looking round at stalls. So, back to the finishing line we waited with baited breath when the first one came in. The leader and rider looked alright but the camel was frothing at the mouth and was non to happy. The rest followed in dribs and drabs, some riders walking in, some with the leader now on the camel and the rider leading. But they all had one thing in common, a very sore bum and aching legs. But is an enjoyable day if not a bit different.
Sunday 9th August
So, professional camel racing today we couldn’t wait. There are all sorts of tribal dancers arriving in costumes which are so colourful, and the place is really getting busy now.
The locals in the campsite stand and stare at us. Not aggressive, we don’t think they can work us out. A goat is tied up over the other side by some local campers and we assume it is going to go on the barbecue later. So, to the start line for the race except there were no camels. They eventually appeared half an hour late, but then this is Africa time after all. Poorly, Poorly, (slowly,slowly) as they say. These camels were not being led, and the riders looked more professional. If only because the camels were at least facing the right way. When the flag went up boy did they move ,everybody got out of the way fast? Unfortunately we missed them coming back in to the finish line as in the programme it said they had to do 24 miles, but the organisers forgot to say they were only doing 18 miles this time.
An award ceremony was held in side the campsite followed by tribal dancing. That goat I mentioned previously is no longer, have just seen it hung up and some guy is carving meat off to put on the BBQ. Nothing like fresh meat.
The odd person came over to chat to us but before we knew what was happening people were asking to take pictures of there children sitting on the land rover wing and standing by the map on the door. We had no problem with this then all of a sudden we were surrounded (pictures to follow). They were just inquisitive, many of them just staring at us. It was like we had two heads or something. Some were asking us about our trip and were amazed that we had come so far. We also had some of that goat, not bad although a bit tough.
Monday 10th August
Today we are leaving Maralal and heading off towards a place called Eldoret. Said goodbye to Heri and Laura although they will be following us tomorrow.
Eldoret is on the way to the border of Uganda our next country but the campsite is apparently well worth the stay. We had a good trip there and the campsite is truly amazing it’s called the Nairberi River campsite, and yes it’s by a river. It has a swimming pool, and everybody has there own shelter with a barbecue in it. The restaurants not bad either with big log fires in several places, I think we might be staying a few days. When we arrived Roy and Sandy (the Dutch) were there (small world or small Kenya). Nice one on the way here, see photo of motor bike. I know its a dirt track but in Kenya this is classified as a road!!!!!!!!
Tuesday 11th. August
Nice place so we have decided to stay a while and plan to leave on Thursday. Had a lazy day, read a lot, filled our faces and not a lot else. Met three travellers (two in a Land rover one on a motor bike) two from Germany and one from South Africa travelling north. Good opportunity to exchange some information on camp sites and roads etc. Heri and Laura arrived later on in the afternoon.
Wednesday 12th August.
Roy and Sandy left in the morning to head for the border for Uganda. We did however receive a text message from them later on in the day to say they had been charged a road tax of 100 dollars ouch! We must look into that as it seems very excessive. Bob went into town to get the tracking done on Sandy as the front tyres were feathering.
Thursday 13th August
We have to drag ourselves away from this lovely campsite today and head back to Nakuru. We need to pick up the solar panel that we purchased last week. Said our goodbyes to Heri and Laura, they our making there way up to the border today but we will no doubt catch up with them somewhere in Uganda. So we set off and had quite an interesting drive as the road (listed as good condition and tar) could have been used as a skate board track. True it started off ok, but it deteriorated later on to the point where once you had selected your rut you had to stay in it. It was unbelievable, it may have been a tar road but they certainly haven’t repaired it for some time. We have never seen deep ruts in tarmac before, dirt and mud yes but never tarmac. Then we had to contend with the matatus (local buses) who drive like idiots. They overtake on the brow of a hill, approaching a bend, and then try and force there way back in when they realise they are not going to make it. The funny thing is on the back door is always a message about god, like “God is with you” “God will take care of you” or “God is watching” well all we can say is he needs to be!!
You also get people stood on the side (normally by the speed humps. The speed humps are not marked or painted, just a tar hump so you look for people congregating at the side of the road or a line of stones to stop you driving around the hump to give you a clue) holding up honey, carrots etc and live chickens that they are trying to sell. Nice! We have declined this kind offer as personally I would rather get it already dead, gutted, cleaned and wrapped in a plastic bag from the supermarket. The solar panel was ready but the bracket had to be modified as it did not fit right and the panel was smaller than expected but after some further negotiation an amicable agreement was reached. Arriving at camp Kembu it was really busy with five overland trucks in, but they normally only stay a couple of days which is just as well because there is always a fight for the showers. This is our third visit to this site but it is good site and well located on the touring route.
Friday 14th August
Gosh woke up this morning to find all the trucks were packing up and pulling out. We are now the only ones here but not for long no doubt. Bob is busy fitting the solar panel and I am typing this up in the sunshine. We should be finish the panel today so we will probably update the internet tomorrow and on Saturday head north to Lake Victoria for a couple of days, then up towards the border. It’s now 6pm. Where has all the sunshine gone. Thunder, and what’s this wet stuff called. Its cats and dogs. Thumping it down. Two hours ago Jackie was sunbathing toping up her tan. I was on top of Sandy in a pair of shorts complaining that the metal was too hot to touch and now this. We will need four wheel drive to get out of the site at this rate. We have done the only thing possible. Put everything away and sought sanctuary in front of the fire in the bar. No one else camping at the moment and they are not expecting anyone.
So cheers everybody dinner is ordered, the fire is warm and the beer cold. Who cares about the rain!!!!!!
So cheers everybody dinner is ordered, the fire is warm and the beer cold. Who cares about the rain!!!!!!
Saturday 15th August
Had a lovely evening last night as we said just sat by the fire and a few beers. When it rains here it really rains and the thunder is not bad either. Just relaxing today, we did visit the internet café and put the blog on, we tried to put the pictures on as well, but they were far too large. We came back to the campsite to reduce them in size then returned to the internet café but it was taking so long, we had been thirty minutes had not managed to download even one. The connection is so slow, so we will download them when we get into Uganda.
Sunday 16th August
Leaving this site today and setting off towards the Uganda border. However we wanted to go to Lake Victoria in Kenya go so a stop off somewhere for the night. We left at nine and had a good trip, we made our way to a place called Kisumu, and found the campsite. But it was very a disappointing site so we moved on. A nice spot in the middle of the forest it was listed and it was just lovely. We cooked tea on an open fire, read a while and got an early night. Strange when you are out of your comfort zone. No lights, sounds you are not used to and everything is strange. But for all that we had a good nights sleep.
Monday 17th August
Set off early this morning we were on the road by seven, Jackie likes to get away from the trees before the monkeys and baboons appear after her last experience. The road was dirt for the first 15kl and we travelled through many small villages at the start of our journey. Everybody was up and people walking with there animals, children were going to school in there brightly coloured un iforms, yellow and mauve with little white ankle socks. These were kids of fourteen or fifteen years old, can’t see English kids wearing ankle socks at that age. Some of the people were smartly dressed, others however didn’t even have any shoes on, and walking on gravel can’t be fun.
We arrived at the border and cleared the Kenyan side, got through to the Uganda side and our fixer told us where to go. We had our passports stamped, the carnet stamped, and were then charged 50 dollars each for our visa, 20 dollars for road tax, and to top it all they then wanted 30 dollars for insurance. We had obtained insurance for all the ongoing countries in Ethiopia called Cosmos (yellow card) but that was not good enough because we had not got a sticker in the windscreen. This is because we weren’t given one. We argued with them for sometime and informed them that the Kenyan customs didn’t have a problem; there answer was you are not in Kenya now you are in Uganda. So had no choice but to pay up. We made our way to Jinja and a campsite called Nile River Explorers, what a view this place has, it overlooks the Nile and the view is to die for. Will stay a couple of days before we make our way to the capital Kampala.
Thoughts on Kenya.
Firstly what a nice place. After coming in from Ethiopia it was a breath of fresh air. It’s Africa but the people are nice, they welcome you. The roads are quite bad due to complete neglect and when they repair it’s only with a very thin coat of tarmac and it doesn’t last long. We stayed a lot longer that we thought we would. Their is so much to see. We would have liked to have stayed longer and visited more game parks and sanctuaries but the pricing make this impossible. To visit a game park it is now $120 US. If you camp that rises to $170UUS. Far Far too much. They are killing the golden egg with the pricing. The idea that you are European and can afford it so you should pay double or triple what the Kenyans pay is racist and out of order. We have voted with out feet and will spend out hard earned cash in another country that is fairer. But for all that we would not have missed Kenya. Once more people who have very little and never will have much more want to give. It can be quite humbling and a constant reminder that life can be very hard in Africa.
Right, that’s the end of Kenya. Next country is Uganda .
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