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UGANDA
To see photo album click on any photo.

We have just crossed the boarder into Uganda and now at Jinja. We will try to finish Kenya off asap and start on Uganda.
All is well, climate hot, some rain, people nice.
Catch you all later.
Bob & Jackie.
This is now much later. Much later than planned.
UGANDA
Tuesday18th August
In the morning we went down town to Jinja and had a good look around. It is a fairly large town with several supermarkets. We headed back to camp to go on the internet to down load some more pictures but it was painfully slow, so will do it tomorrow as there is a very nice café down town that has wireless so that will do nicely.
Heri and Laura arrived ;(The other Swiss) they have been up north for a couple of days around Mount Elgon and Sipi Falls.
Wednesday 19th August
Heading off today to go to Kampala today, it’s only about 70km so it will not take long. But first we needed to update some of the web site so we called at the local cafe that had free internet and wireless at that. The line was good so 150 photos went on the web. We have also noticed that Uganda seems to be far more civilised, prosperous and more forward thinking than Kenya. Having arrived at the Red Chilli campsite we bumped into Roy and Sandy again (the Dutch). We got settled, had showers then headed for the bar for a meal with Roy and Sandy. (What else would you go to a bar for?)
Thursday 20th August
Bob changed the half shaft oil seal this morning on one of the rear wheels to cure an oil leak, meanwhile I went down to the local shopping arcade had had a good walk around.
Roy and Sandy left, but Heri and Laura arrived from Jinga, then Wurly and Esther (The original Swiss) also arrived. It was really great to see them again as we haven’t seen them since we travelled down the dreaded Moyale Road with them. They went north into Kenya as we went south. After dinner we all sat around chatting, it was so nice to catch up.
Friday 21st August
We went down town shopping as we are leaving tomorrow to go to Murchison Falls. These falls are supposed to be spectacular and we will probably visit the game park as well. However when we went down town we left all the bedding outside as it was a bit damp, given that it rained rather heavily during the night. While shopping the skies opened. It was worse than stair rods. We found out as we $came out of the shopping centre, but Jackie was very impressed with the fact there were men there with umbrellas walking you to the car. Any way when we got back to camp Laura had very kindly took everything in for us, although it was still damp it could have been a lot worse.
The rest of the day we just tided up, filled up with diesel and the auxiliary tanks which cost a total of £86.00, not bad. But diesel is still one of our biggest expenses even at these prices.
Saturday 22nd August
Set off for the Falls but planned to camp halfway in the forest as they had a visitors centre with camp site. Arriving we found that camping was $10.00US each, no shower just a bit of grass. Explaining that we were English not stupid we moved on. Arriving at our second choice, it was closed. Removed, no where in sight. Just a bare patch of land.
Looking around at the game grazing we decided bush camp right there. The sky was so clear, stars shining through. No light pollution, no noise. During the evening we were treated to a display by fire flies for about 40min. White lights darting around, up and down it was brilliant.
Sunday 23rd August.
The alarm was for 6am. (Yes its early but we hade visions of seeing lots of game around first thing in the morning). Were we disappointed? Yes we were. We woke up to torrential rain and not a thing in sight. It hissed it down. Fortunately at about 7.30 it stopped well almost. But all the game had gone home and stayed there. Oh well. We packed up and left for the falls, we had a short walk to reach them once we had got there but the trip was so worth it, you could hear the roar of the water before we actually reached it, the falls were a fantastic sight to see.
Later on in the day we found the sister campsite of Red Chilli, we don’t think it is so good as the Red Chilli in Kampala but it will do for one night.
Monday 24th August
Decided to go to Murchison Falls National Park to day. This involved getting a small ferry to get across the Nile. We drove off the ferry and it was not long before we saw the biggest lion we have ever seen, just casually lying under a tree. There were lots of buffalo, giraffe, impala, antelope, but we had spent some time driving around looking for elephant. Having not seen any we decided to make our way out when we turned the corner and there in front of us was a huge elephant, we spotted some more in the distance also; we spent some time watching them before heading off to the ferry.
The 3 0’ clock ferry was due and we watched it come across from the other side and thought it was going very slowly to what it had done before but we did not think too much of it. We drove on then realised why it had been going so slow, one of the propellers was wrapped in wire mesh.
We were told we would not be going anywhere until the wire cutters turned up. So without further ado we made a cup of tea and chatted to the guys who were trying to remove the wire. Half an hour later it was removed and we were on our way. Decided to head back to Red Chilli for the night.
Tuesday 25th August
Moving on today nearer to the Westside of Uganda and heading for some Hot Springs a dip in there would be nice. But over the past couple of days we had noticed a noise from the front axle and having stopped for a coffee Bob said after inspection that we were not going anywhere as the front stub axle was falling off. Oh!!! Ok then, as we were still very much still in the bush, l decided to hang the washing out as it had not dried the day before. So did what the locals do and hung it all over the bushes.!! So back to the axle. Bob had slackened it off, resealed it and tightened it back up.
However, on one of the bolts the thread was stripped so the repair is only temporary. It seems that he needs to get his hands on a welder to drill it and weld the hole and then retap it. Whatever that means. I assumed that he had got a welder with him as he seems to have everything else tool wise, but it appears not. We will have to call in to Kampala again to do this, but it is not a problem as we are going over to Lake Victoria anyway and it is not to far from there. We can go back to Red Chilli and use the wireless internet, and of course have access to PROPER shops.
So, back to the Hot Springs. We could not find them. Having driven round and round, through villages, up hills and down the provable ditches and on the lake front we gave up. By this time, time was getting on so decided to set up camp. We found a lovely spot in the bush hidden away from anybody, well, apart from the cows that is. So we spent a nice evening by the camp fire, there was however a lot of mosquitoes and needless to say we did get bitten, but we keep taking the malaria tablets.
Wednesday 26th August
After a great nights sleep we are heading off to a place called Fort Portal today. This is supposed to be one of the nicest towns in Uganda. We intend to stay a couple of days as there is a fair bit to see and do.
Thursday 27th August
So, we went to see this waterfall and we were asked if we wanted a guide, as we declined the offer the guy looked really shocked. You have to pay for a guide and we told him we have found our way here from England so we are sure we can find a waterfall only 500mtrs away. Well it really was a sad looking waterfall, not one that is a real tourist attraction. All overgrown and an unmarked path to help the guide earn a few bob. When we came back a monkey appeared and tried to get in the land rover. It ran over the roof, around the sides and underneath. All the doors were open and Bob was trying to chase it away and close the doors at the same time. In the end it was hiding on top of the awning. Bob hit the underside of the canvas with the pick handle just under the monkey. It then moved rather rapidly. Hopefully not to return again as the catapult came out ready for it.
Friday 28th August
Left Fort Portal today, but only going 20km to Lake Nyamirima. The Chimpanzee Guest House has a camp site and what a beautiful setting it was. It used to belong to a man who owned the tea plantations near by, he built the house right on top of a hill over looking the lake. This is now the guest house with camping in the grounds.
They had three lovely dogs and one of them adopted us for the night. He slept at the bottom of the tent ladder on guard. But for all his efforts Jackie only gave him a small piece of bacon and not even a sausage for his trouble at breakfast. That will be the last time he will guard the campers. We had dinner in the Guest House and that was a mistake. Chicken, potatoes and veg. Somehow they forgot that we actually do eat a meal and not just smell the aroma. The portions were that small. Two small drumsticks, half a spoon of veg and a few potatoes. Not a meal that we call a meal but I suppose that’s what they’re used to.
Saturday 29th august.
Our intention was to go to Lake Victoria via the queen Elizabeth Reserve but with the front axel in mind and the repair being only temporary we decided to go direct to Kampala as the road was tar all the way. What an influence having a tar road makes on us now. The 320kl was covered at a steady 50mph but as we neared Kampala you could hear the front wheel making a loud swishing noise. Sounded like a wheel bearing on the way out. No doubt as a result of the front stub axle coming loose. We limped in to Kampala to Red Chilly Camping again. Settling down for the night another Land rover appeared, Steve and Katie. They had issues with there Landy and were in-between the garage and another vacuum pump again. You would think that when you buy a new item it would last but that is not necessarily the case out here. So many counterfeit parts the only good part is genuine parts. And that’s not easy as they all look the same.
Sunday 30th August.
Driver’s side front wheel was stripped down and the inner bearing had ridges on the race like the tectic plates under San Francisco. I made good the front stub axle. Not having a welder I was unable to weld an additional plate at the back of the tapped hole to drill and re tap. So a long high tensile steel bolt and a nut filed to fit the contours of the back of the tapping and we were back in business. At the same time I fitted new bolts to the top of the windscreen surround to stop it flexing against the roof. Jackie meanwhile was route planning and doing house (land rover) work. (cleaning another job that’s like painting Blackpool Tower)
Monday 31st August.
Sat on the internet most of the day loading photos and updating the web site. This is like painting Blackpool Tower, it never ends. You just catch up. Steve and Katie arrived back at about 4pm with my wheel bearings so I set too fitting them. The job was finished at about 6.30 so time for tea and a beer.
Tuesday 1st September.
A good clean up and tools all put away. We can drive at last again. Off to the shops for much needed supplies and a decent internet café. The shopping went well but ha! the internet, it was back to the camp site. Dropping Jackie off to wrestle with the internet I headed off to find a tyre shop to get the front wheels balanced, the spare wheel repaired and the tracking done again for the third time. It is impossible to get things done right out here unless you sit and watch every move they make and check it. At last I am reasonably confident that the steering/tracking is right. We will see. Meanwhile its back to loading photos on the internet as we want to get as much of this done as possible so that we can head off into the wild blue yonder tomorrow.
Wednesday 2nd September
Hit the internet before we headed off to upload more pictures. Then we are going to meet Steve and Katie as they have left something behind at the campsite. Jackie thought they had gone to Entebbe which is not far, about 60kl. So, internet done off we went. Arriving we visited all the campsites but could not find them, rang there phone but no answer. (Found later we had been ringing the wrong number). Decided to stay at Entebbe backpackers which was a very nice site the other main one at the Zoo was not too good. But while we were at the site, Jackie was putting the kettle on when she turned around and saw a spider hanging from the top of the tent by the back door.
It had come down from the tree above. What a whopper!! as you might say. (see photo) Needless to say it went along the lines of “just get rid of it”. So it had to go, this was one she didn’t want to keep it as a pet.
Thursday 3rd September
Decided to make our way nearer to the Rwanda border, we went to Masaka and pulled in to a campsite which had an amazing right up in the guide book. The right up was so far off the mark, we don’t think they visited the site at all. But having limited options we decided to stay anyway. No sooner had we set everything up when a message from Steve and Katie came in on Jackie’s phone. We rang them back and discovered they were about 20km away sat by a lake and the description was super. So without further ado we packed back up and went to meet them. The setting of the lake is lovely, parked by the water, flat grass, camp fire, clean toilets and showers. And to cap it all Steve had brought a huge fresh fish from the local fisherman. Now this was a big fish, about 8lb. Wrapped in tin foil with butter and lemons it went onto the fire alongside the baked spuds. That was a meal and a half thanks to Steve & Katie.
Friday 4th September
It’s nice here at Lake Nabugabo so we are staying another night. Steve and Katie headed off early this morning as they have to go back to Kampala to get another vacuum pump fitted. It was a beautiful day so we stripped out the sheets and sleeping bag and gave it all a good wash, ok so it was with cold water but we have got used to that. The remainder of the day we just sat and read and chilled out. Evening. it was time for the black pot on the fire with Pork and veg.
Saturday 5th September.
Woke up to a bright sunny day, the Lake was still with not a ripple in sight, birds twittering. The start of a nice day. I was up first and moved some veg boxes outside to access the fridge for milk to make the coffee. I then went off for a shower leaving Jackie fast a sleep. Returning from the shower (cold by the way, it has an effect on you first thing in the morning. It wakes you up so to speak). But returning from the shower I saw about 30 monkeys at the back of the land rover and all around it. Realising that I had left the veg boxes out I started to run. Too late. The little blighters (I can’t put what I called them) had had the bread, eggs, veg and the fruit out on the floor. All half chewed. Did they run but not until I was almost on top of them. They were professional scroungers, stayed as long as possible without getting caught. Chasing them off they only went so far being reluctant to leave the feast. They turned and looked to see if they could get back to the food. I loaded the catapult and let fly. They knew the sound of the twang of the elastic well enough. All the veg and fruit was ruined, dustbin material. Half eaten, half chewed. Jackie meanwhile had come down from the tent wondering what was happening. Breakfast was a very quick meal now for us as the monkeys had eaten most of it. So we now needed to do some shopping as well. Packing up we were continuing on towards Rwanda, slowly. Our destination was Mbarara, some 100kl. Not far but far enough as next day could be a long one depending on how it went. The road while it was tarred was total Cr**!! (Can I say that?) Full of pot holes, in fact is was how to dodge the holes. One car had a wheel off. Not removed by man, it still had the half shaft on it at the side of the road where it had come off.

We wouldn’t mind but the holes were brown. (Colour of the dirt) OK easy to see on the tar but no. They fill some of the holes in with dirt!!!! of all things, so you can’t see if it’s a hole or not. Pick your point, drive and hope is the theme. But our camp site was a nice hotel by the town centre. Arriving for lunch time it seemed a shame not to make use of the restaurant before shopping down town.
Sunday 6th September.
Today ended up an interesting long day, we are going through the Queen Elizabeth Game Park en route to Ishasha camp site which as a matter of information is right by the Congo Boarder (DRC). We had to go this way as Jackie wanted to see the Tree climbing Lions and this was the closest camp site. The first part of the day was nice and easy, all tarmac. Good tar at that. We saw a camp site for monkey tracking. Thinking this looks good we drove 3kl to the site which was a fantastic location. Facilities rubbish but what a view. Alas they don’t do camping. UH, why call it a camp site!!! The mind boggles some times. Having seen a site further back at a Lodge we retraced our steps. Following the signs through the bush for a further 11kl we eventually arrived. Another nice place but with all the facilities. Swimming pool, bar, sauna, Jacuzzi, boating, it had all the right bits. But $110 US dollars a night. They would have allowed us to camp but the site they had in mind was not what we had in mind at $10 US each. (Bear in mind this is Africa and the economy is not even close to Europe. The local price would be about $1US. If you pay it once then everybody is expected to pay it) No matter we still has Ishasha Camp in mind and a fall back after that. But what we could not find out is if the camp site was in a National Park. On the map it looked outside but maps are not OS maps so you always have an element of doubt. Continuing on towards the park we came to our left turn when Jackie let out an almighty scream, go back, go back, go back, quick go back. Stopping I reversed up the side of the road. What she had seen was four Lions hanging about in a tree about 100mtrs from the road. What a sight they were. Viewed through the binoculars you could see every detail. Unfortunately they were too far to photograph. They were quite big and very capable of eating anything that dared to go too close. Watching them lounge about was great. Eventually they climbed down the tree into the bush. We continued onwards and came to a couple of Elephants. Unfortunately apart from some Impala (deer) that was all we saw. The road was now a gravel road and quite a good one at that but it soon deteriorated. We were now running about 2kl from the DRC boarder parallel so we were being careful with the navigation. Arriving at a park gate we found out that our camp site was inside the park. Being 4pm we did not want to continue further unless we had to. However after being told that to go to the camp site a mere 8kl would cost us $110 US for park entry fees we decided to continue to our fall back camp site at Lake Bunyoni another 120kl further on a dirt road all the way except for the last 20kl. Continuing on we saw quite a lot of trucks coming towards us all fully loaded, very, very heavy probably at about 70 to 80 tonnes each. All Mercedes, double drive heavy duty trucks with big four axle trailers. Due to the road being dirt and only the centre being usable we had to pull over every time we met one. Far, far too big to argue with. Not really thinking to look at registration numbers, had I have done I may have twigged on and saved a problem later. About an hour later we came to a village and driving through we were stopped by a barrier across the road. The police and the Army came out of the check point and we asked them to lift the barrier so that we could continue. They asked us where we were going. Once we had told them that we were going to Lake Bunyoni they then told us that this was a cargo crossing into the (DRC) Democratic Republic of Congo!!!!!!!! Do we want to continue? Not a chance was the quick reply. The smile on their faces said it all. (One smart arse caught out). We were at the boarder of one of the most dangerous countries in the world. 100mtrs further and we would have been in. Thanking them for keeping the barrier down we started to back up the road. Fortunately they saw the funny side and then told us that a short cut existed through the village but it was a track. Looking now at the nav unit (yes if we had looked sooner we would not have been here) we could see that the road we wanted was some 25kl off to our left. (away from the Congo). Now Jackie thinks I am unfair as my stance is I was driving so going off track was down to her not watching the nave unit and looking for animals. She thinks I should have been watching. In truth, both knowing where we were we should have both been watching. Lesson learned for both of us I think. Using the Nav unit we headed off. What a track, we can only assume that this was a loose term. We passed through distant villages, tops of mountains, (2600mtrs high) through a gorilla park (none seen) and eventually we hit tarmac. Albeit an unfinished road and it was dark! They had put piles of gravel across the road with only one part cleared so one car could go through at a time. People were driving without lights, with just high beam, on both sides of the road both ways. In the end we had all lights on, all eight and stopped dipping them. We now know why we don’t want to drive at night. Eventually we found the turning for the camp site and headed once more up a step track. Now in the day it’s bad. But at night after driving for 10hrs it’s horrendous. But we made it to Lake Bunyoni. Lo and behold as we parked up we saw a Toyota, Roy and Sandy our Dutch friends. We parked up, put up the tent on the grounds that we were going for beer and food and climbing on the top of Sandy with beer in you when tired was not a good plan.
Monday 7th September.
Woke up to a view of the lake. Not able to see it last night in the dark but what a nice view. Decided to have a chill day today. Feet up and rest.
Tuesday 8th September.
Roy and Sandy headed off to Rwanda. We went down to town to get supplies, bead, milk etc but don’t want two much as we are going to Rwanda tomorrow and with very little camping it looks like hotels for a week to 10 days. Need to plan what we are going to see and do. The Gorillas are top of the list followed by the Genocide memorials. Also we have to start planning Tanzania as it’s such a big place and we could do with a week by the sea chilling out.
Thoughts on Uganda.
What a lovely country. So diverse, from flat lands to mountains and lakes. The scenery is stunning. The people nice, friendly and helpful. But the usual story, it is spoilt by the children who think you are going to put something in their hand if they hold it out. I am surprised the Ugandans do not see this as shameful. The country seems to be making more progress within the infrastructure than some but they still have some way to go. Housing on the whole would appear to be slightly more upmarket than some of their neighbours. Cost of living is good and it is not an expensive country. Driving while it can be a little fraught or exciting at times, on the whole not too bad. Tourism looks on the up with lots of backpackers. But once more they are trying to price everything to the maximum that the tourist will pay especially with the game parks which I believe are well over priced.
See Rwanda.
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