So into Zambia today, which will be our tenth African country? We got away for 8.30, after filling up with fuel we set off for the border. There is talk of a fuel shortage in Zambia it’s also dearer than Malawi so it made sense to fill up before we left. We were sorry to leave Malawi; it is a beautiful country, the people extremely friendly and helpful. But in comparison to other African countries it was fairly expensive, particularly food items.
We only had 150kl to the Zambian border and arrived in no time. The whole process for both borders only took 35 minutes, which to date is a record. Passports stamped on exit and entry, carnet stamped, visas paid for which was another $50 each, and a charge for carbon tax which cost 150 thousand kW (now carbon tax in a country that lets vehicles emit smoke and pollution like you have never seen in the UK. But that’s all over Africa) and we were free to go. We drove to the town of Chipata where we camped at Deans Campsite. A Belgium couple called Vincent and Marjon were also staying there who we chatted to in the evening over a beer as you do.
Saturday 31st October.
When paying the camping I was given change, see photo. Now how much is this worth? Looks a lot. Answers to web site, no prizes just a bit of fun. We were going to South Luangwa Park for a few days to see the wild life. About 150kl but it as usual a rough road. Vincent and Marjon were also going to the parks so we gave them the option of a lift in the back. Not the best place to ride but all we had. Stopping every 50kl to give them some air and a leg stretch. Did they need it; it was boiling in the back. Arriving at Crocodile Camp we camped right on the bank overlooking the river.
Sunday 1st November.
Nice quiet relaxing day. Looking at the crocks in the water (you can see how the camp was named) and some were quite large. We went for a walk on the river bank and in the next camp site found a giraffe walking around. Later we came to 5 elephants. A place to walk with care.
Monday 2nd November.
Did a game drive in the park? Bit disappointed as we never saw any cats, not even a pussy cat. Lots of elephants, giraffe etc but no cats.
Tuesday 3rd November
We were joined by Steve and Katie who had travelled from Malawi today. They had ideas of travelling through the park as well to the north end. The Dutch we also thinking of the same route so three up seemed good for all. Later in the day we saw a group of Elephants crossing the river. It was something to see how they put the little one in the centre and all herded it across to keep it safe.
Wednesday 4th November.
Moved campsite to Flatdogs across the road. No reason other than to have a look. The Dutch arrived.
Thursday 5th November.
Wow what a camp site this is. Swimming pool just had to be used. Elephants wandering through the camp, Hippos stroll around at night. A place to take care. In reception they have a couple of notices that bring the realities of life out here home.
If you decide to go for a walk in the bush alone without a guide, and are lucky enough to come back alive, we will ask you to leave.
We value your safety if you don’t.
Please remember that while you are here, it is like being in the Zoo.
The only difference is that you are in the cage with the animals.
Friday 6th November.
Quite day really, sorted everything out in the morning. It seems like a never ending task keeping the back of Sandy clear and tidy. Later we went into the park for a game drive. No cats showing not even a pussy cat. But lots of elephants, some in the road and at times all around.
Back for a bout 6pm and an early night in preparation for an early start in the morning.
Saturday 7th November.
Today we were going to drive right through the South Luangwa Park some 80kl of rough road (Sort of a Track) with river crossings (wet and dry) through mud and sand. Then it was another 80 odd kl of Escarpment to climb. After that it would be easy, just 150kl of Tar. (Tar is good). It sounds like it could be an interesting day. Needing to set off early we were all up at about 5.30 (am not pm).However, best laid plans and all that jazz. Just about 6am when we were in the middle of packing every thing away to get off, along came three of the biggest Elephants you ever did see. That in its self was not so bad but they insisted on walking around the cars. Jackie was inside the front, (see photos) at one point if she had opened the window she could have touched one of them.Roy was on top of his Toyota making himself as small as possible. Eventually they went, thankfully. But this is their turf not ours and they are big enough to do just what and when they please.But we started of albeit a little late and hit the road. Soon we were ploughing through mud and water. It had rained cats and dogs the night before so water was right on the agenda. Nothing major, bit of mud and a few steep descents and climbs in and out of dry river beds. Some needed more caution than others. We made steady progress on the track, through dry sandy river beds, up and down ditches and then we came to the river crossing. Sandbags laid across the river about ½ mtr high covered in water with some of the bags collapsing. (It’s Africa, don’t ever expect anything else).Overcoming the hurdle we continued. The next real obstacle was the escarpment. This can be described as rough rock, washed out donkey track, climbing not vertical but sometimes it felt like it with hairpin bends that would do an alpine mountain pass justice. But when the tarmac came it was a welcome sight. The rest was easy. Arriving at about 3.30, it felt like it had been a hard day.
Sunday 8th November. (nearly my birthday)
We stayed put for the day and went for a 7kl walk to a local waterfall. (Now when you have just sat in a car for 6 months it comes hard) The water was so inviting that a paddle was in order to cool off. Afterwards we went and sat in the hot springs. What a contrast to the falls. This was like a hot bath and very soothing on out poor aching muscles.
Monday 9th November.
Mutinondo Wilderness Lodge was our next stop. In the Forrest. Lots of walks, canoeing, horse riding etc, etc.Out in the sticks as you would imagine, but quiet and peaceful.
Tuesday 10th. November. (birthday boy tomorrow)
We had heard about a colony of Fruit Bats that were worth looking at. Reputedly the biggest mammal migration in the world.We just had to look and see. Making our way towards the Kasanta National Park we stopped off at the Kaudinia Water Falls which is a drop of about 200ft. Quite impressive and typical Africa, the viewing point was on the edge of a cliff. Of course it had safety railings around it, (Don’t be stupid). We camped just outside the park for the night as that way you don’t pay park fees until you go in.
Wednesday 11th November (Did I mention it was my birthday)
Went into the park today, nice place but it is a birdie paradise. Not many animals at all but it has the bats. Lazy day today. The others arrived later just in time to go and see the bats. This is one of the strangest wildlife spectacles in Africa. Between about 6.15pm and 6.45 pm, some five million fruit-bats take to the air to go and feed.For 20 to 30min the air is filled with them, circling overhead before going off to parts of the Forrest in search of food. Going into the colony, well the guide book puts it quite eloquently, “Visiting this colony is not for the faint hearted, even during the day. Large crocodiles wander under the trees, far from the nearest water, scavenging for dead bats-along with vultures, gymnogenes and a host of other predators.”We decided to view from a safe distance. But the view of them all in the air was a sight to see. The photos do not do the event justice.
Thursday 12th November.
En route to the next reasonably sized town (we needed supplies) Lusaka some 500 kl we broke the trip by stopping half way at the Forrest Inn. Quite a nice place S13.43, 16 E29.09, 24. Very clean and tidy with good grass to park on.
Friday 13th November.
Quite run into Lusaka, nice road. Refilled the gas bottle and went into Shopwright to get supplies. Food once more or more to the point a choice of what to eat and not just eat or starve. Camping at Pioneer lodge some 14 kl to the east of Lusaka. One thing we have noticed about Zambia it the number of insect. We have been bitten to death. Mainly ants and do they bit! We have had to put a green shade around the lantern to lessen the attraction to the moths etc. Yellow would be better but as normal you cant get it. During tea Steve had a close encounter with a scorpion. It was making for his feet at full speed when Roy hit it with a machete and made it into two. Problem solved.
Saturday 14th November.
Updated the website and stayed put for the day.
Sunday 15th November.
Still at Pioneer, not a bad spot. Went into Lusaka to have a look around and ended up in the Irish bar for lunch. We didn’t bother with tea.
Monday 16th November.
Woke up this morning to RAIN. It had to come but please not when you have to pack up. Had a very enjoyable time here. Nice place, clean showers etc and free internet. What more could you want, but its time to move on once more. Into Lusaka for derv and some shopping and off towards Livingstone stopping ½ way at the Moorings for the night. S16,11.624E27,32.600. the write up was good in the book, we will see.
Tuesday 17th November.
We have been away now for 8 months, leaving England on the 17th April. How time flies.Nice place this camp site unfortunately it is overrun with red ants. We were bitten to death last night walking back to the tent.The toilets and showers are first class, some of the best we have found. The bar and area is once more excellent. The price is reasonable at 25,000kw.But the ants, boy do they bite. Hopefully they will do something to get rid of them. But upwards and onwards. Running down towards Livingstone. Our intention is to stop at the Waterfront camp site ( S17,53.075 E25,50.353) which once more has a good write up and meet up with the Dutch and the English.Camping here is ok, bit pricy at 46,000 pppn, but it is a nice site and close to the falls.
Wednesday 18th November.
Down into Livingstone to do some shopping (once more). We popped into Follies Landover. What a refreshing change to talk to someone who not only understood Landover’s but who was interested and knew what the parts were. Then it was on to Victoria Falls. Bit of a disappointment as the falls due to the season (Dry) has very little water going over it. But the scale and volume of water at peak, you just could not imagine what it must be like. We could see the Zimbabwe side of the falls and it looked very impressive (lots more water) but due to politics, unless you buy a $50 visa you are not allowed to cross.Rest of the day catching up with the web site and getting ready to go to Botswana tomorrow.
Thursday 19th November.
Into Botswana today. Now once across we are going into Chobe Game Park. Apart from having a new number, in all probability telephones will not work in the game park. So for 4 or 5 days we will possibly be un contactable.
Sandy goes to Africa | sitemap | log in
