|
NAMIBIA
Click on photos for album
Thursday 10th December
Early start once more (a late start would be good once in a while) and up to the boarder. We only have two more boarders to go now, Namibia and South Africa. The boarder was the easiest and quickest so far and the most informal. 10min out of Botswana. 10min into Namibia and charge of 180 Namibian dollars (12 to £) road tax. After the boarder we headed west to Rundu to a camp site called K’Wazi lodge S17 52.039 E19 54.444. Arriving at about 4.30 after driving through a fantastic thunder and lightening storm. Forked lighting was unbelievable and quite spectacular. The site was part flooded but they could fit us in and that’s all that mattered after a 515kl trip. A cold beer was most welcome before setting up for the night.
Friday 11th December
Stayed for the day. Caught up on washing, bits and bats and chilled out ready for tomorrow.
Saturday 12th December
Moved on today heading eventually for Etosha National Park. Today though we are going as far as Tsumeb about 300kl, the road was tar and straight so we had a good run. On the way we stopped off to see the worlds biggest Meteorite, which weighed 53 thousand kilogram’s.
Being Saturday afternoon when we arrived we were surprised the town resembled a ghost town. Everything was shut; we were looking for an internet café more than anything but no such luck. We then spotted Shop Rite the supermarket, we thought that it must be open, but no even that was closed. Bob just by chance switched the lap top on just in case there was a wireless connection some where, what luck there was, we don’t know where it was from but that was fine by us. Caught up with emails etc. then went to the local caravan park which also did camping, nice sight, great security and boiling hot showers.
Sunday 13th December
Today we continued our journey to Etosha. We had spoken to Steve and Katie who were already there; they informed us that they had travelled through the park to get to the Southgate from the east. This undoubtedly saved a lot of miles so we chose to do the same, and it would make a more interesting drive. The road through the park was gravel but good all the same, we have been on far worse roads. We had left Tsumeb at 7 0’clock and we got to the south gate for 2 0’ clock. Steve and Katie had booked us in at the Toshari Inn; we arrived and caught up with them as we last saw them at Maun in Botswana when we left to go to Francis town to Bob’s sisters.
Monday 14th December
We couldn’t be bothered to get up early this morning for a game drive so just had a very relaxing day. There was internet here so we sorted out the shipping from Cape Town to England, as Steve and Katie were here as well it made sense as both vehicles are going home together. We also sorted Christmas out; we had intended to spend it either in Swakopmund or Walvis Bay. Unfortunately we were disappointed on both counts. It appears the South Africans come up to Namibia for Christmas to those two places and everything is booked up. We are talking about campsites here, but South Africans are big on camping. This being the case we have booked our selves into a camp site in Windhoek the capital of Namibia.
Tuesday 15th December.
Early start again. Up to Etosha Game Park for 7am. We spent the whole day driving around all the water holes looking for game and what did we find, a few Giraffes, Wart Hogs and if it wasn’t for the Springbok and Zebra we would have thought the park was empty. This was the only lion see that day.
But that’s how it goes some times. It was hot, very hot in the 35d zone so when we returned to the camp site we jumped straight into the pool. As camp sites go this one is not bad. You have your own BBQ, table, tap electric points (and they all work) the toilets are just something else. They are outside with a log surround, but hot water, and clean. Jackie was having a shower in the middle of a thunder storm. She was getting wet one way or another.
Wednesday 16th December.
Leaving Etosha Game Park this morning we feel has if we have had enough of game parks. We had intended to go to the Kruger in South Africa, but have now decided against this as it is way over on the East side of South Africa and well off our planned route. This morning we drove down to a town called Otjiwarongo to stock up on food once again. A never ending problem. While in civilisation we found a doctor to look a Jackie’s eye. It had swelled up overnight and needed checking out. Eye drops and eye cream later and we were on our way. Now the further south we go the more civilised places are getting. It’s nice. Finding a nice camp site for the night at Kudubos we lit a fire and settled in for the night.
Thursday 17th December.
We planned to go and see the Dinosaur footprints and the singing stones today whilst we make our way to the Skeleton Coast. We left early from Kudubos as we had some way to go. We saw the footprints and they were quite impressive.
On to the singing stones, they were not so impressive and they certainly were not singing. Just a pile of rocks and stones on top of a hill. No music!!! It is extremely hot here in Namibia and lots of gravel roads which makes it very dusty, at the end of the day you feel coated in sand. Decided to stay at the Ugab Community camp site, although it was so barren we might as well have bushed camped.
Friday 18th December.
Off to the Skeleton Coast today, we were really looking forward to this. Our journey took us through the Gobobosebberge Valley; it was a fantastic drive on sand tracks most of the way. Sometimes the sand was fairly deep, the next minute it was compacted completely flat and barren. Volcanic rock, craters, you name it this place has it. The scenery was diverse and brilliant. Desert with long grass that had turned yellow through lack of water, it was the sort of place you would expect John Wayne to ride round the corner on a horse. Eventually finding our way out to the coast, what a surprise we had. Never before have we seen such a forbidding place. Firstly the change in temperature was a complete shock to the system, one minute you are hot and the next the temperature drops like dropping a stone down a well, it was warm in the sun but cold out of it and I mean cold. The land was devoid of any plant life
or water (other than the sea). Being shipped wrecked here now would not be funny never mind a hundred years or so ago.
When we found the camp site, it was fairly full with fisher men and their families staying there. They had set up camp like small villages and it looked like they were staying all over Christmas. You would not believe the equipment that they had carted in. Not only tents but caravans, cooking shelters, beds, generators, and miles of wind breaks (that one I understand) as it was blowing a gale but the sun was still shining. All I can say is good luck to them, as once the sun had set it was freezing.
We sat in the front of the car until it was time to go to bed, not quite our idea of fun.
Saturday 19th December.
Leaving the Skeleton coast this morning we drove along the coast and saw a couple of ship wrecks.
We are going to Swakopmund to day, it is said to be a lovely town, often described as being more German than Germany. We called into Cape Cross where there is a seal colony; this place has to be seen to be believed. There are thousands of adult seals and pups in such a small area;
it is a bit smelly and not a place to linger too long on account of the fly’s that are out in abundance looking for a meal. (Yes not only do they annoy the hell out of you but they bite into the bargain. When we arrived in Swakopmund we booked into the Desert Sky Backpackers and bumped into Steve and Katie. (Out of all the campsites in the town) Nice campsite, with the use of a kitchen with every utensil you can think of, plus somewhere to sit at night as it is warmer here than the Skeleton Coast, but still a nip in the air from the sea breeze.
Sunday 20th December.
Explored the town today, it is a lovely place, very clean, lovely buildings, palm trees that line the
streets, little side streets with lots of individual shops in. It is hard to imagine that you are in Africa here, and it shows the diversity of Africa from mud built shacks and rutted roads to nice wide clean streets and amazing houses. Swakomund has a very nice feel to it and is a pleasant place to spend a few days.
Monday 21st December.
More of the above.
Tuesday 22nd December.
We dragged ourselves away from Swakopmend today as hard as it was. We can see why the South Africans go for Christmas, and as to why everything is booked up. Said goodbye to Steve and Katie once again, they are going north for a while but we will no doubt meet up with them somewhere in South Africa. So, we are off to Windhoek today for Christmas, interesting drive passing through several mountain passes and desert on the way, the journey was a good 360kl.
 We arrived at the Roof of Africa Lodge and campsite only to have a bit of a shock. Bearing in mind we had prebooked this. Upon arrival we were told that the campsite did not exist anymore, but because we have a roof tent we could stay in the car park.!!! Goodie Christmas in a car park.!! We looked at the said car park and fell about laughing; we could not imagine cooking there or more to the point sitting out there at night. Going back into reception, Bob said we were not going to stay and asked how much a room in the lodge was. I of course became very excited at this prospect especially as the lodge has a pool. They showed us a room, Bob did a bit of bartering putting the guilt complex on them. In the end we had a decent deal and the room was ours. The receptionist did say that she should have explained on the phone that we would be staying in the car park, but no harm done and a nice room for Christmas, Yippee!!!
Wednesday 23rd December.
A real chill out day went to a shopping centre got a few bits to smuggle into the room, airtime for the phone so we can ring relatives and friends Christmas Day, a swim in the pool, updated the blog and that was about it. Whilst I was sat by the pool I had the pleasure of witnessing two huge tortoises trying to mate. It was so funny, but I could not help but feel sorry for the male. He had taken ages to get into the right position only to slide all the way down off the shell, but I guess the shells are quite slippery. He attempted it all over again but I didn’t stay to watch the result.
On that note:-
MERRY CHRISTMAS
TO EVERYBODY AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Thursday 24th to Saturday 26th December.
We have had a lovely Christmas very relaxing and not doing a great deal. Christmas dinner was fine, albeit a little different to our traditional dinner but the basics were all there. The remainder of the time was spent reading, swimming in the pool and ensuring that the bar remained in the same place at night time as you do.
Sunday 27th December.
Having not seen anything of Windhoek we decided to move into the town today. We moved from a 5* Lodge and checked into the Cardboard Box (0.5 *, it’s a backpackers and don’t you just love these names) which was very convenient for the town.
Had a good look around, (found a Wimpy, Milkshake hmmmm delicious) some of the shops were open as well so that was nice.
We did not like Windhoek as much as Swakopmund; but Windhoek did not have that quaint small town feel to it as Swakopmund does. But we felt that we had to see it as it is the capital of Namibia before we moved on.
Monday 28th December.
With Christmas festivities now over it’s time for us to hit the road again. Heading now towards Sesriem and Sossusvlei and the sand dunes which are one of Namibia’s top tourist attractions. The sand dunes reach 325m, about 1000ft, so a sight well worth seeing. (You are supposed to walk up and slide down on your backside, we will see) We intend to camp at the entrance in the campsite, and go in before sunrise to see the different colours of the sand. Today we drove half way and camped at Garries Campsite. Nice stop off point, the coordinates are S2351321 E01630479. This is not on tracks for Africa, but it is clearly sign posted. Run by a nice local couple who are just trying to earn a shilling or two. It’s very much stuck in the middle of the desert and very peaceful. The facilities are basic but adequate and immaculately clean. We had quite a chat with the owner over a beer and it was nice to see a different view point.
Tuesday 29th December.
Once more on gravel roads and into the mountains. Lovely drive over the Remhooget pass, not quick but very scenic. About 135kl and we hit the gate for lunch time. As we suspected while they were full they had an overflow site. Finding a shady tree to camp by we downed tools and headed for the pool. Next port of call was a cold drink. Well it’s over 85d so we thought we deserved it. The rest of the day was working out the route and a little bit of servicing on Sandy. Later on Jackie had started on a can of cold orange drink. Taking the can for a drink I felt a sharp pain in the mouth. Spitting out quickly a wasp came out. I had been stung inside the mouth. My face started to swell immediately. Taking two Antihistamine I hoped that would contain it. But an early night is on the cards as we will be up at about 4am in the morning.
Wednesday 30th December.
The alarm went off at four; the lower right hand side of my face had swollen up like a tennis ball. (More Antihistamine). We had a quick breakfast and headed for the gate. The road through was a good tar road, which is just as well as you would never make it through before sunset if not. It was still dark at 5am and it seemed strange to be driving in the dark after we have mad it a habit not to drive in the dark unless no other option. With a steady flow of traffic we passed Dune 45 and could just make out people starting to climb it. At the end of the road we came to the car park, from there if you don’t have a 4x4 you have to walk the last 3kl. The road then becomes deep sand. We carried on to the end, and yes we hit deep sand but a good excuse to play. We eventually came to Sossusvlei where it loomed up in front of us. We started the walk up; the sand was extremely soft and still very warm even at that time in the morning.
 Reaching the top the view was amazing, however it was not possible to slide down the dune as it was so soft.
There were many dunes to climb, but having done one we did not see the point, so had a quick coffee and set off to stop at Dune 45. A busy place Dune 45, it was crawling with people, they looked like ants making there way up the mound of sand.
 Having cooked some breakfast whilst we were there we made our way back to the gate. It was still only 8 0’ clock but it felt as if we had been up for ages. A quick trip to the garage to refill the ever empting gas tank then we hit the road. (More Antihistamine for the face, no smart comments please.) Deciding to visit Luderitz on the west coast as it is sort of on the way to the border we had a 420kl drive. Gravel roads all the way, Bob does not mind them, but me I hate them. We eventually arrived at the tar road with only 60kl to go, this is a very windy place, sand was blowing across the road, the scenery was bleak to say the least it was almost like the Skeleton Coast all over again. Feeling very tired after such along day, we pulled into Luderitz Backpackers, had a shower, dinner (more Antihistamine as the face was expanding rapidly especially around the lip!!!!!!! ) and had an early night.
Thursday 31st December.
Up quite early and made an appointment with the local Doctor. My face and mouth had grown bigger (Keep the comments). He prescribed a stronger Antihistamine, with Cortisone, Penicillin and a mouth wash. Apparently I am allergic to the stings. So I will look a little like Quassi for a while (on the face anyway). So Happy New Year Folks to one and all.
Friday 1st January.
Heading for the border past Fish River Canyon today. Left Luderitz having some 287kl to drive, will not make the border today as once we turn off the main road we still have another 141kl to do to the border and this will be on gravel so we will have to find somewhere to camp for the night. We passed the commonwealth war graves so popped into have a look, there were some extremely young soldiers in there, some dating back from 1915 to 1918. Not a good time for them judging by the graves. Strangely the graves were almost all weed free, quite neat and tidy. Obviously someone must look after them. Considering the sacrifice made it is the least that could be done.
The scenery was spectacular on the drive down, still desert like in places. Eventually arriving in a place called Rosh Pinah we soon realised that everybody was away for the holiday period. We checked out a couple of places to stay but had no luck, nobody answered us. Then the penny dropped, it is a mining town. Everybody goes away at Christmas and New Year so all the shops and hotels etc close up. Dhoo, smack your head. Moving on we pulled off the main road by the Orange River and headed East towards Fish River Canyon.
We found a nice spot to camp for the night right by the Orange River; it was lovely when night fell. A full moon shining on the river which lit everything up, wonderful. Then it was the road out to South Africa which was long and never ending.
Thoughts on Namibia.
One the whole we both liked Namibia. Bit disappointed with Etosha Game Park but that’s the luck of the draw. Country side was beautiful even if much of it was desert. It was nice to be away from the crowds and be able to drive in vast open spaces for long periods without any contact with anything but nature. The Skeleton Coast is the Skeleton Coast, Barron, windy and forbidding but unique. Swakomund was a highlight. An oasis in the desert and barren coast line. We could hardly believe what we were seeing, so civilised, and almost plonked in the middle of sand dunes. Big wide tarred roads, shops, pavements, very, very much like a German town. The only down side is the temperature change, quite windy which brings the temperature down. The people are very friendly, not that we saw many people as there is not that many in the desert. But the population is only about 2million country wide. Even the gravel roads are quite good. Unfortunately a lot of the country is out of bounds due to the diamond mining or made into National Parks. The parks are quite reasonable for entry fees as is the cost of living. On the whole it is a place that we would defiantly return to given the opportunity, especially Swakomund.
See South Africa for more.
|
|
Sandy goes to Africa | sitemap | log in
